We will have a mix of S-SW swell and new WNW energy. On Thursday the S swell was a bit more dominant and I saw a lot of left-handers pushing through at the local beach breaks. This should shift back to a more even WNW/SW mix on Friday…so we should have a few more rights sneaking through, and a touch more consistency to the surf as well.
Wave heights will be in the waist-shoulder high range for most of SoCal. Standout areas in San Diego, Ventura, the South Bay, and Orange County, will have surf in the shoulder-head high+ range on the lower tides. Expect surf in the Santa Barbara area to be smaller…more in the waist-chest high range for most spots (even smaller the further north you get).
Shape will still be a bit soft in the morning…we still have to try and muscle past a 5.4’ high tide that peaks at 8:30 or so. The tide will bog out a lot of breaks at first but we will see much better shape around lunch as it drops off. (I am soooo sick of these morning tides…seriously I hate you high tide!)
We can expect decent conditions on Friday. Look for light and variable to light offshore winds in the morning along with patchy fog and overcast skies. Expect clearing skies and light N-NW winds around 10-12 knot by the afternoon.
Finding the best surf won’t be that hard…any decent combo break should be fun. Look for the biggest waves through Orange County and San Diego. Other areas will be a little smaller and a little less consistent but should still see plenty of workable waves. Unfortunately Mr. High-Tide has to go around being a jerk all morning…lots of spots will start off swamped out…and those that aren’t will be pretty soft. Personally I am going to shine the morning surf…wait for the tide to drop…and try to paddle out around lunchtime. (and keep my fingers crossed that the winds will stay light)
Here is a great picture of why you won’t find big waves in Santa Barbara tomorrow…please note my very scientific equation that explains the situation.
2 comments:
Thanks for passin' on a lot of your swell forecastin' knowledge.
no worries, glad I could share a little stoke with people. I just checked out your blog as well...it has got a ton of cool stuff on it, very groovy. Keep it up!
Adam
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