On Saturday we are going to see a mix of SSW swells, local windswell, WNW energy, and some increasing tropical S-swell energy in the afternoon.
Wave heights are going to hold in the chest-shoulder high range at most of the decent breaks (both WNW and S facing). Top spots, particularly the S-facing standouts, good winter spots, and excellent combo spots will have shoulder-head high surf with some overhead sets mixing in.
Unfortunately winds/weather will be the issue on Saturday. There is a new storm front that is forecast to move through SoCal bringing some increasing S-SW winds and rain through the morning...and then more rain and SW-W winds around 20+ knots by the afternoon. Check out the COAMPS model.
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Here is the weather model for the morning as well...looks like most of the rain will be up in LA, Ventura, and Santa Barbara areas.
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Now there may be a surf-pocket in the morning...particularly for the spots that are further south (OC and SD). A lot depends on the front and when it actually arrives. If it stalls out we may see cleaner conditions. Personally I think it is a good idea to give the cams a quick check in the morning and see if the winds and rain have head off. Here is a shot of where the front is as of this afternoon.
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On Sunday we are going to see more swell as the SSW'ers hold, the windswell increases with the storm, and more WNW swell and tropical S swell build into the mix. Wave heights will be similar to Saturday but with a bit more size. Average spots will be in the shoulder-head high+ range while the standouts see overhead+ sets.
Shape isn’t looking great...usually we get strong NW winds that push in behind a front and they have a tendency to really slop things up. There may be a couple of protected spots but in general I am expecting mostly poor shape and crappy water quality if we get any sort of significant rainfall. Here is a shot of Sunday's winds...again they look on the lighter side in the morning but the onshore flow builds in really fast as we head to midmorning.
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Here are the tides for the weekend...cross your fingers that the winds stay lighter than the forecasts...and have a good one!
Saturday
01:19AM 3.1' High
04:59AM 2.7' Low
11:40AM 4.9' High
07:58PM 1.1' Low
Sunday
12:21PM 4.6' High
09:30PM 1.2' Low
1 comment:
STORM SUUUUUURFFFF!!!
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