Thursday, October 2, 2008

Friday’s Surf – Morning Fun

Friday is looking like another surf day…particularly through the morning. Don’t plan on another evening glass off though…we will have increasing onshore bump as a new cold front starts to approach from the North.

On Friday we are going to have a mix of SSW swells, WNW swell (280-300), and some local windswell.

Most spots are going to hold in the waist-shoulder high range while the standout spots, which would be the best S facing spots, the top winter spots, and the good combo breaks, will have head high sets…maybe even a plus here and there. Check out the Oceanside Buoy from this evening…combo swell fun!

Winds are forecast to be onshore in the morning, but light…mostly below 5-knots. I am a little fed up with the wind model over the last few days (it has missed both the afternoon glass-offs and has been overcalling the afternoon winds most of the week)…so I am a little suspect on the amount of onshore flow for the AM hours. Likely it will be light/variable and then turn onshore about midmorning. Expect increasing onshore winds through the afternoon.

I think the combo breaks are going to be the best call on Friday. The beach breaks have been pretty fun and if you have a spot that has something to focus the swell, like a good sandbar, it has been pretty ripable even through the edges of the higher tides. I am planning on getting up early, checking to see if the wind really is as light as I think it will be, and then heading down to surf. If you stick with the top breaks I think you can probably skip the morning cam-patrol (but get a good read on the wind before you commit to the drive).

I think that OC and SD will have the biggest, most consistent surf, but look for decent waves through Southern Ventura and the South Bay, with north LA and Northern Ventura as a smaller but still fun choice if you are locked in. Again I don’t think you should drive 2 hours for waves or anything tomorrow (or jump counties unless you are getting totally screwed by the swell shadow)…but it may be worth hunting just a little further than normal if the winds stay down.


GONZ!! said...

would the malibu area be fun tomorrow you think or HQ better..

Jacob said...

Hey Adam,

This isn't really relevant to your post, I actually have a question regarding cold fronts :) I have to do this project for my meteorology class (college blows haha)where I keep track of the high temperatures each day and state whether a frontal passage influenced the weather...could you explain frontal passages to me, either via email or the blog? That would kick butt if you could explain it to me because I don't understand frontal passages haha!

Anonymous said...

HB has been world-class the last few days. Doesn't happen too frequently, but when it does...

As someone said out in the water: you usually have to take a plane somewhere to get waves this good. Sort of like a good overhead day at Pupakea.

Adam Wright said...


Sure man I can help is pretty straightforward actually.

Frontal passages are basically storm fronts. These fronts occur when you have an interaction of different air-masses...usually an area of low-pressure (storm)interacting with an area of high-pressure (which is usually good weather).

The "front" is what meteorologists use to define the edge of an air-mass...this is normally used to define the edge of a low-pressure...sometimes these can be wet/cold as in the case of a storm coming out of the higher latitudes, or warm/wet moving through the tropics. Occasionally they can be cold/dry or warm/dry but the can still cause a frontal effect as they interact with another type of air-mass.

It sounds like you need to measure 2 things for this assignment...the air-temps and the location of any fronts. Air temps are easy...but you might need to look at the NWS website to get an idea of where the fronts are. (you could also use a barometer, which an tool measuring changes in atmospheric pressure, and if you had a big drop in pressure you could correlate that to a passing front.) The NWS basically measures all of the barometers plugged into a huge network and does that measuring for you.

I would look at this NWS page and it can help you highlight the fronts moving through your area.

Anyway it sounds like a cool assignment...hope this helps.

Oh and HB has been firing...the winds have laid down the last couple of afternoons with the low tide and it has been pretty rad.


Jacob said...

Thanks Adam that actually helped a lot!