Tuesday, October 21, 2008

Humpday Waves - SW swell showing a bit better than anticipated.

Wednesday will be a surf day.

There is a decent pulse of SW swell (190-210) that started showing early on Tuesday and will continue to push in on Wednesday. We will also see some local WNW energy holding in the background.

To be honest I wasn't expecting Tuesday to have as much energy as it did...the fetch that sent us this SW'er was on the tail-end of the storm that did a lot of its surf generation in the more westerly portion of our swell window, which usually means the energy gets chewed up by the SPAC islands. But based on what I am seeing on the buoys it looks like the storm was a bit more intense than it looked as it moved into our more open swell window, which means I get to add a little more size to Wednesday's surf. One of the few times I don't mind being a bit too conservative.


Is it just me or is the buoy giving me the finger?

On Wednesday look for the average exposed breaks to hold around waist-chest high with some inconsistent shoulder high sets. The top spots, mostly through San Diego and Orange County but also at a few of the better combo spots in the other regions, will see some shoulder-head high waves on the lower tides.

Look for mostly light/variable winds through the morning with a few pockets of light southerly texture and fog in the more southern regions (OC and SD). WNW winds build in around 10-12 knots for the afternoon.

I think that we will be able to find some fun waves at most of the SW facing breaks tomorrow. The WNW energy isn't really all that strong so try and avoid the winter spots and focus on the SW exposed surf spots and the combo breaks. I think that the points and reefs will have the best shape...mostly because of the dominant SW swell direction and lack of push from the WNW...but the beach breaks should be ok, you might want to check the ones with piers and jetties first though.

Things are still looking solid for the SW swell later this week...looks like some stronger WNW swell (stronger than what we are currently seeing but not much over waist-chest high at the purely winter spots) will arrive as we head into Friday and Saturday.

Damn almost forgot the tides

06:07AM 4.2' High
11:21AM 2.7' Low
04:49PM 4.8' High

9 comments:

Alex said...

haha! funny f-ing buoy.
fun surf today and yesterday in Santa Monica and the Palisades

Anonymous said...

that swell took an incredible nose dive befor dark, it was, mostly kne high at sunset, the cdip model had spac at 2.2 and down to 1.4 this eve.
AW any idea what causes this?
thanks.
Coconutz!

Anonymous said...

so you so sure that the surf will be good tomorrow am? It seems like the CDIP chart is showing that SW swell going bye bye by tomorrow..

Adam Wright said...

It is 11:40am and on the O-side buoy I am still seeing nearly 2' of energy showing in the 16-18 second range...and another 2' of energy in the 14-16 second bands.

I think this swell is going to hold through the day for sure...at least enough for some fun waves at the exposed breaks.

Adam Wright said...

11:40pm sorry...sooo sleepy

Alex said...

fun surf this morning in Venice. decent size on a few of the sets

Anonymous said...

there was no surf today, you are all nuts and kooks, want some real surf go to hawaii

Anonymous said...

You were right Adam, it was actually bigger this evening! Thanks that was a pulsating little swell, Coconutz!

Anonymous said...

There were chest/shoulder high sets at Ponto this A.M. I had a blast.