Thursday, October 16, 2008

Friday's Surf - Slow fade

Friday will be another surf day but our waves will be winding down and we will still need to sneak round the big-ass high tide.

Our surf will be a mix of fading SSW swell and leftover WNW energy. Most spots will hold around knee-waist high+ with some chest high sets. Standouts will be more in the waist-chest high range with some chest high+ waves on the better tides. Look for the biggest waves through San Diego and OC, but still fun size through LA and Ventura.

Winds look nice and light in the morning. Mostly light/variable to light offshore. Winds for the afternoon will stay on the light side as well...coming onshore around 5-10 knots out of the west after lunchtime.

If you have surfed in the last couple of days you can expect pretty similar conditions to what we have seen...only a bit smaller, and probably a little more walled up at the beach breaks (if that is even possible once we get to the low tide drainers). Points and Reefs will have the best shape overall and may even deal with the tide swing (a little) better. There will definitely be some windows where shape and conditions are better. I think the Dawn Patrol should be pretty fun...and if winds stay light, early afternoon as the tide starts to drop but hasn't gone into the surf black-hole of the negative low tide.

Tides for Friday

04:26AM 2.0' Low
10:40AM 6.3' High
06:11PM -0.5' Low


Anonymous said...

If you were lucky/smart enough to be in the rights spot(s) over the last two days, save your energy for the next swell.

It's a shame we have to live for Oct. All day glass with both early am (to beat the tide) and late afternoon drainer sessions.

Seems like all of SoCal headed to everyone's favorite contest site. Saw Timmy Reyes absolutely rip a good 6-7ft face racy left with a huge air in front of some kook he burned.

Anonymous said...

oh really? that's awesome! did you run up and ask for an autograph or offer to carry his board? I bet you did, you sweetheart!

Anonymous said...

Actually, I was up on the pier taking a break. The nice thing about that perspective is, even though there's a high concentration of hot surfers on the bowl, you can really see how the QS/CT guys are in another league.

I didn't even recognize TR at first, since he was further up on the second peak, until after I saw him take off on a well o/h, behind the peak right, going mach 2+ while getting barreled.

After that, I kept an eye out, and sure enough, a big draining set left came through that he just lit up. Really, if you know what good waves & hot surfing are like, it's a real pleasure to see a world-class surfer going blindingly fast and making huge punts.

Anonymous said...

Ooh, I like it hot :-)