Thursday, June 3, 2010

Surf for Friday – holding S-SW swell with a side of NW windswell

Friday looks like another surfable day…but again the light eddy flow will be out there adding some texture and crumble to the more wind sensitive spots.

The first S-SW swell (190-210) will fade on Friday but another similar sized pulse will move up out the Southern Hemi to help reinforce the fading surf. Overall it looks like surf sizes will be similar to Thursday but it may be a little more consistent thanks to the newer energy in the water. NW windswell will continue to hang around the background.

Average exposed areas will be in the waist high range with less consistent chest high sets. Standout breaks see some chest-shoulder high surf with a few potential bigger waves showing at the excellent combo/SW facing breaks.

Winds will continue to be a bit weird on Friday…not really an eddy…but not totally clean either. The main driver of the winds will be an upper-level high-pressure that is strengthening over the region but since the high is pushing in NW flow the eddy is trying to form along the ocean surface. The result is that these two features are trying to cancel each other out…and we are getting these semi-textured conditions. Basically we can expect light/variable-onshore winds for the morning, with speeds hanging 5-knots or less for most areas. Onshore flow picks up around mid-morning/lunch and then we see W-WSW winds around 10-15 knots for the afternoon.

So overall it is still looking rideable/playful on Friday but not 100% clean. I think that the morning is going to be your best bet again…since the winds will be lightest around 6-8am...but you might be able to extend the surf window if you stick with spots that have some wind protection or something that can groom out the bump. You will probably want to stick with boards that work in smaller surf so you can squeeze more out of the smaller sets…since the bigger waves might be a bit inconsistent at times.

Here are the tides…

06/04/2010 Friday
02:25AM LDT 3.5 H
09:37AM LDT 1.0 L
04:42PM LDT 4.0 H
11:08PM LDT 2.2 L


DM said...

Near O'side, the surf was really nice (chest to shoulder high) and glassy this morning. Hope tomorrow is more of the same.

SC Fool said...

Did you surf DMJs?
I'd love to get in there!

Anonymous said...

one chest high wave every half hour in venice this morning. super inconsistent and weak.

Adam Wright said...

I surfed HB this morning and it was easy chest-shoulder high with a few bigger head high sets sneaking in. It was a little inconsistent at times, and pod of dolphins came to snake me and then laugh in their squeaky high-pitched I hate those guys. Anyway...It got a little funky by midmorning but the wind didn't tweak it much until about 11-12.

Anonymous said...

I surfed hb too only it was more in the waist-chest high range
newport had more size pretty fun this morning winds were never really an issue

DM said...

Re: SC Fool

Yep, that's the spot. This morning was just as yesterday, but not as glassy. Not sure why you couldn't try to get on base. A handful of O'side guys getting on, but not sure what they tell the Marines at the gate. Good luck.