Wednesday, September 3, 2008

Thursday's Surf - Even more S swell!

The S swell was showing pretty well on Wednesday...but, like I thought, it wasn't that great at the beach breaks...the points and reefs were definitely the call if you didn't mind battling it out with 200 of your closest friends.

Check out the scene at Malibu today...(I screen grabbed this about 4pm).

"got next!"

Anyway Thursday will be a surf day too...

The S swell will continue to hold throughout the day and we may even see an increase of local windswell. I don't think the windswell is going to be able to break up the S swell but it may help a little bit at the better combo breaks.

Average spots will continue to see surf in the chest-shoulder high range with a few head high waves.

Standout S facing breaks, mostly through Orange County and Northern San Diego, will have shoulder-head high surf with a few overhead waves mixing in.

Winds will be ok…mostly light and variable in the morning with building W’erly flow through the afternoon, eventually topping out around 10-12 knots.

Points and Reefs will be the call again on Thursday…maybe a couple of the good sandbars (like the ones near piers and jetties) as well. The more open beach breaks will still have some shape issues…lots of walls and lots of current at times. I am not sure home much this swell is worth driving for anymore…most everyone is on it, which means that most of the good points and reefs will look a lot like that Malibu picture…you will have to weigh your need for quality surf vs. how aggravated a crowd can make you.


Yong Jung Shin said...
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er said...

LOL... Great post! WTF was with the AM crowd after 9?!? It was as bad as a sunny summer Saturday.

I just got out... Malibu was OK (I'd call it Fair). There is a mixed swell rolling in.. The sets were inconsistent and closing out if you took off too deep. Otherwise, there were a few fun waves to be had since everyone was sitting inside picking up knee high scraps

At least there is waves, right?!?


Ben Johnston said...

@ yong jung shin...

The average rush around here (cardiff/encinitas) is generally based around the 9-5'ers, though my travels and common sense suggest that this is the norm anywhere in so cal. On a decent swell, you'll have a big lineup on the reefs from sunrise to 9ish, and 4:30 (sometimes earlier on fridays) til sunset. If you don't mind wind, your best bet to beat the crowds is the mid-day tide movements.

bc said...

Trestles was crowded before it was even light out.

It was going off though. I would say 8-10' faces on the sets...

cv said...

Question - Looking towards next Tues & Wed on WaveWatch, there is a SW that is building to 4-5' and relatively long periods (15 sec) and a steady SSE (3.5' @ 12 sec) but the surf heights are predicted to be a steady 4'. I would think a 4' swell would produce more than 4' surf? Thanks for any insight!

Anonymous said...

conditions today were bad for north oc...saw a couple tuberides in newport though

i was surfed out from the prior six days of surf so i sat it out