Thursday, September 18, 2008

Friday's Surf - SSW swell continues

Friday is looking like a surf day...but if you want clean conditions you had better try and surf during the first few hours of daylight.

Our SSW swell (185-205) will slowly start to fade on Friday but it will continue to send in enough decent surf that we should have plenty of fun at the exposed breaks. The local WNW windswell will continue slip through in the background but won't do a ton to break up the SSW'er

Sizewise the average spots, breaks that have some exposure to the SSW swell and some of the local windswell, will hold around waist-chest high with some inconsistent shoulder high sets showing on the lower tides.

Standout SSW facing breaks, mostly Orange County and North San Diego (with a few spots in North LA), will see chest-shoulder high surf on the average sets and a few head high faces on the less consistent bigger sets.

Winds look mostly clean in the morning but there will be some onshore texture building in from Santa Barbara down through North OC...not enough to blow it out but enough to put some texture on it. SD areas may see a bit of eddy texture. Again most beaches will have winds below 10-knots but a few of the more exposed areas won't be totally clean. Afternoon Winds build in out of the W around 10-15 knots.

Here is a shot of what the winds are supposed to look like tomorrow at 8AM…looks a little breezy as you move into North OC and regions further north.

I am still thinking that the points and reefs are going to be the best call on Friday. The beach breaks are still pretty lined up, particularly as the tide fills in...(the SSW swell isn't dropping enough on Friday to get us past the usual wally shape of a dominant S-swell.) That being said, the points/reefs are probably going to get a little crowded since it is the end of the a good beach break sandbar, especially if it is near a pier or jetty, will be a halfway decent fallback if you aren't sold on battling it out with the crowd.

With the wind and the semi-wally conditions I think this is sort of a borderline swell to spend a lot of time hunting around for waves...personally I am going to try and stay local and see if I can find some fun ones close to home.

Tides for Friday

12:18AM 3.7' High
05:27AM 1.9' Low
11:51AM 5.8' High
07:22PM 0.4' Low

1 comment:

Anonymous said...

I saw "Surfer Dude" last night. Man, does that movie suck!