Thursday, September 4, 2008

Friday's Surf - Will work for combo swell...surfing closeouts sucks

Friday will be another surf day...still a little wally at the beach breaks but fun at the points and reefs (if you can wade through the crowds).

We will have a mix of slowly fading S swell (170-180) and increasing local NW windswell. Most spots with S exposure will continue to have chest high+ surf. Standout S facing breaks in Orange County and North San Diego will have sets in the shoulder-head high range. The bigger ones may be a bit less consistent as the swell fades but there should still be some fun ones on the lower tides.

Winds may be a little funky (like we saw on Thursday) looks like we will see light W winds around 2-4 knots coming onshore through the morning...basically stretching from Santa Barbara through North Orange County. San Diego will be cleaner but may still have a little bit of light SW-W texture as well. All spots will have W winds around 10-12 knots by the afternoon.

Check out the latest NOAA graphical forecast for tomorrow morning...looks like a lot of "crappy pink" from OC northward. Stupid wind.

I think tomorrow should still be OK despite the bump...particularly if your spot has a little say the inside sections of the good point breaks, high cliffs, piers, or jetties...basically something that can knock down a little of the breeze. Fortunately those are the same sort of spots (if they have south exposure) where you are going to find the best surf shape.

Beach breaks will be a bit walled again, along with some fun current, but we might start to see a few more creases in the S lines as the windswell comes up slightly.

For some reason I am not really fired up on this swell, I still don't think that it is worth driving very far to surf. Yeah a few spots have had some size but the breaks that can hold a decent wave have been pretty slammed. Maybe it is the just the "crazy-talk" of man with a newborn at home...but I would probably just try and stick it out with the local spots and make due with what I find rather than wasting much gas to sit in a crowd.

Fortunately there are some more waves on tap next week...check out this lovely post on all of the renewed activity in the South Pacific.

Swell Alert - The South Pacific is coming back online


Anonymous said...

greetings from japan!

Anonymous said...

huh? and i qoute...

" like waves…even if they are a little closed out."

whatever BRAH!

Anonymous said...

r u bi? bi-polar?