Wednesday, September 17, 2008

Surf for Thursday - Fun SSW swell

Thursday will be a surf day...we have a new SSW swell peaking so a lot of the summer spots will continue to see playful surf while the standouts see some halfway decent size.

Like I said the new SSW'er (185-200) will peak on Thursday...it is coming in from a decent angle, and we have a bit 'o windswell to cross it up, which is nice. Most S-facing spots, (the average breaks in OC, SD, and the top spots in N. LA), will be around waist-shoulder high on sets with maybe a rare bigger wave coming through.




Standout S facing spots, particularly those in OC and North San Diego, will have shoulder-head high sets, with an occasional overhead wave sneaking through.

Winds will be ok...just a touch of texture in the morning and then building W winds around the usual 10-12+15 knots by the afternoon.

I actually got a chance to surf a bit this afternoon and the new swell was starting to fill in...the beach break that I was at was a little walled and I expect that to continue tomorrow as well. There were a few little corners but it was mostly fast, semi-walled lefts. With that being the case I think that the points and reefs are going to be the best call tomorrow since they will have longer more makeable sections. Beach breaks will be an ok fall-back if they have a decent sandbar and can handle the higher tides that push through around midday.

Thursday's Tides

04:59AM 1.4’ Low
11:11AM 5.9’ High
06:16PM 0.3’ Low

Oh and here are the stats for my new board…I was so tired I forgot to post them with the picture last night.



Length - 6’6” Width - 20.5” Thickness - 2.75”

Check out Tim’s other shapes when you get a chance (if you order one tell him you saw it on the blog!)

http://www.surfboardsbystamps.com/

2 comments:

Alex said...

How did you decide on that size and shape, Adam?

Adam Wright said...

I usually sit down and talk with the shaper and let them help me decide on the final product. I am a bigger guy...about 250lbs and I am built like a defensive end or a big rugby player...so I am a little limited on the length and width of the board. If the overall shape or volume of the board is too small it just won't float me (just can't overcome displacement physics).

So if I go shorter on a board I have to compromise by making it wider and thicker.

I had a general idea in mind when I walked into the shaper. I knew that I wanted a quad, and I knew the types of waves I like to surf, which are generally on the fast and hollow side.

I picked out the basic template and tail shape and let Tim the shaper do the rest of the work.

I got a chance to ride the board yesterday and I was pretty impressed. This board is a little smaller than what I had been riding but the quad set up makes it go really fast. I had a great time on it...I can't wait to get it even more dialed in!