Friday, May 9, 2008

Surf for the Weekend - I love me some South swell!

This weekend is looking pretty fun particularly for S facing breaks.

Things may start a little slow early on Saturday but a new S swell (180) will be filling in throughout the day as it mixes with some local NW windswell and leftover energy from all over the place. The swell eventually peaks on Sunday and holds into Monday.

Most exposed breaks will have surf in the waist-chest high range with some inconsistent bigger sets mixing in at times. The standout S facing spots will be more in the chest-shoulder high range with some head high sets coming through as the swell peaks. Well exposed combo breaks will have a bit of windswell crossing up the S swell and helping to set up some peaky shape.

Winds are looking decent as well with the cleanest conditions showing through the mornings. Look for light and variable winds through the dawn patrol and then NW winds hitting around 10-12 knots for the afternoon.

S-SW facing spots will be the best call over the weekend. Points and reefs will be fun with decent shape but I think the beach breaks, particularly the combo beach breaks, will be just as playful. Personally I am going to check the local sandbars and see if I can get a few empty ones rather than trying to battle it out at the big-time point or reef breaks.

Remember that Saturday will be a slow through the morning because the swell is just starting to fill in. You may want to take your time getting down to the beach...pace yourself...it will still be fun but the bigger waves will be inconsistent. Sunday and Monday will have much better dawn patrols.

Have a great weekend...oh and remember to check back, I am going to be posting my new Salt Creek Break Map (if I don't surf myself into a coma or something).

5 comments:

chris said...

hey adam, do u have plans on making a sunset cliffs surf map in the near future?

Adam Wright said...

not in the near future...but I can add them to the list if you want

Peter said...

Great site. The combination of useful information and humour is perfect.

Question: I checked the surf in Oceanside this morning and it was worse than yesterday. Ultra crap windswell dribble. The O'Side buoy shows some south swell but NONE of it is translating into waves. Why?

omar said...

Great site, thanks !!

Adam Wright said...

Peter - Yeah I know what you are talking about...It looked about the same in OC.

This morning I think it is more a function of the swell/tide combo along with a little interference from the windswell.

In simpler terms I think that the dropping tide (which bottoms out in about an hour) is sort of draining out the forerunner energy of this S swell...so it is showing OK on the buoys but not on the beach.

I am going to wait for the tide to swing around (and the swell to fill in a bit more)...and we should remember that the swell really doesn't peak till Sunday/Monday.

Thanks to you (and Omar) for the kudos on the site...I am stoked that I can spread a little surf-love out there.