Tuesday, October 6, 2009

Waves for Wednesday – Still some surf but with a touch of texture

Wednesday will be another surf day but it may not be as clean as Tuesday.

Overall surf heights will drop a touch more on Wednesday as the majority of our S-SSW swell (180-200) begins to fade out…fortunately we also have a new pulse of SSW swell (190-210), and some background WNW windswell, that will keep our surf from dropping too far.

I am not sure if you guys have been checking the buoys over the last day or so…but this S swell has had some legs. Check out the Dana Point Buoy…

Usually you don’t get a southern hemi swell to push in energy in the 12-second swell-period range…most times those shorter-periods will decay out…but storm that set up this one really managed to follow-through behind the initial front…anyways this was just trivia…maybe we should send the southern hemi a nice note or something.

Our surf for tomorrow will continue to hold in the waist-chest-high range for most of the average spots…even seeing a little more consistency at the average combo spots as the local windswell pulses up a touch. The standout S facing breaks, mostly in Orange County, will be in the chest-shoulder high range pretty consistently…but with a few bigger sets sneaking in through the morning low tide again.

Winds forecasts are sort of showing a little funk tomorrow morning…they are actually calling for an eddy to form just south of the Channel Islands, which is sort of a weird place eddy-wise (usually it is closer to Catalina), and to top it off it is calling for it to be a “clear” eddy without the usual marine layer…eddy with sunshine. If the eddy does spin up like this we will see a bit of S-SW wind…mostly below 5 knots…pick up in the morning. Not enough to blow it out, but enough to put some crumble on it at the less-protected spots.

I did notice that the air-temps are supposed to drop tonight, which will sort of negate the worse parts of the eddy circulation…hopefully enough to keep it clean in the morning. At this point…I think we should expect some texture…and then be pleasantly surprised if it stays clean. Of course you can stick to spots with some south wind protection and avoid most of the problem all together. Afternoon winds pick up out of the W-WNW 10-12 knots.

Despite the slight wind issues I think it will still be fun tomorrow, and worth getting out to catch a few. S-facing points and reefs will probably have the best shape…but the beach breaks, the ones with decent sandbars, have been pretty fun lately as well. I would try and get on it early to take advantage of the lower tide.

Here are the tides…

04:35AM LDT 2.0 L
10:52AM LDT 5.9 H
06:20PM LDT 0.1 L

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