Thursday, October 15, 2009

Surf for Friday – Combo swell and offshore winds

Friday will be a surf day…water quality still won’t be great…but with a still playful swell combo, warming beach temps, and light offshore winds…I don’t think many of us will stay out of the water.

Swellwise we are going to see a mix of fading W-WNW swell (275-300 but again with most of the energy around the 285-300 degree range, which means that the larger surf will be at the better NW facing breaks…not the purely W facing ones) and some peaking S swell (180-200). The bigger sets from the W-WNW will be dropping out fast but there will be enough energy to keep us surfing…and plenty of juice to cross up the S swell sets at the combo breaks.

Look for the average exposed spots to see surf in the chest-shoulder high range…a little inconsistent on the sets and getting more tide sensitive…but still plenty fun. The top NW facing spots, mostly through San Diego and Ventura, will be in the chest-head high range with still a few bigger waves mixing in through the lower tides. The best combo spots, pulling in the S swell and the WNW energy…mostly in Orange County and Northern San Diego…will be more consistently in the chest-head high range again with some bigger waves on the best sets.

Winds look good…forecasts are calling for a light Santa Ana (Santana to some of you) to form tonight and hold into tomorrow morning. Look for light-offshore winds out of the N-NE for most areas…and some stronger offshore flow near passes and canyons that funnel down to the beach. Light and variable winds are expected for the afternoon…but look out for some onshore bump forming through the mid-afternoon.

There is one downer tomorrow, which is the morning tide swing…we have a big fat 6-foot high that hits right around 8:15am. That tide isn’t going to do us any favors…but fortunately we have enough swell still coming through that we should be able to find waves…and to top it off the winds look good enough to keep it clean as the tide drops. Personally I am going to slow my morning roll and try to paddle out midmorning and see if I can take advantage of the light winds and dropping tide…hopefully to find some local combo swell goodness.

Here are the tides…hope you get a few fun ones tomorrow too!

02:08AM LDT 0.4 L
08:17AM LDT 5.9 H (dirty swampthing!)
02:49PM LDT 0.0 L
08:45PM LDT 5.0 H


Jonathan M said...

Waves with a dash of poop, I'll take three.

Anonymous said...

That Wed afternoon super session was pretty freakin' good. It was bigger today, but never had quite the same magic. I'm hoping tomorrow puts it all back together again.

Anonymous said...

no one surf tomorrow, there is going to be a huge earth quake.

ER said...

Even if you fuk'n kooks had an empty lineup, you'd still choke.. so spare us the wishful thinking

ER said...

Friday AM:
Solid overhead sets, a few scuffles, offshore winds, and of course the 'Anonymous Kooks' paddling into waves and backing out..

You should be kicked the fuck out of the water for pulling that shit!

Anonymous said...

Still 10 on the perfect-o meter even with all the visitors in the water. Jeez, it was like QS contest with all the photo pros out.

Anonymous said...


I get the feeling you aren't actually all that great of a surfer. Most of the best surfers I've ever seen in the water happen to be the nicest guys as well. Don't be a deusche bag, it gets you no where.


Anonymous said...

alot of really good surfers also get pissed when they have a limited amount of time to surf and people are pulling out of perfectly good waves cause its not the 3 foot slop they normaly surf.


ER said...

Anonymous 1... deusche or not... I think the majority could give a crap. If you're going to paddle out amongst a group of surfers that 'can' make a drop... you best commit and go!

Hence: Don't fuk'n paddle into a set wave and back out (for whatever reason). At least show you've got the balls to be out there..

P.S. I get the 'feeling' that you were amongst the uncommited ;)