Sunday, October 11, 2009

Surf for Monday – Small S-SW swell mix...storminess out the back

Monday is not looking like a surf day...small swell, funky weather, and building S winds will hamper shape/size throughout the day.

We are going to see a mix of small S-SW swells (180-220) and touch of local NW windswell. The SW swells will actually be getting a very slight increase in energy, but like most SW’ers they will be inconsistent (thanks to their passing through the South Pacific Islands)…so we shouldn’t expect much from them. New WNW-NW swell (285-300) starts to move in through the late afternoon, mostly after sundown, but may show enough to get some waves into the well exposed Santa Barbara/Ventura breaks before we run out of daylight.

So despite some changes in the swell mix I am not expecting much change in the size tomorrow. Most breaks will be around knee high with some inconsistent waist high sets. Standout SW facing breaks, mostly through South OC and some North SD areas, will be more in the waist high range with rare chest high waves.

Weather and winds will start to get a bit funky tomorrow as a weak cold-front skips ahead of the bigger storm and moves through SoCal. At this point it doesn’t look like it will be all that bad windwise…sort of light/variable to light S-SE in the morning with building S winds around 10-12 knots coming through by the afternoon. S-SW winds 10-15 knots begin arriving later in the evening. The marine layer is expected to stay pretty deep tomorrow…and possibly even squeeze out some drizzle in a few areas (particularly in the SB/Ventura regions).

It just doesn’t look very fun tomorrow…it might be surfable with a bigger board but even then expect to sit around a lot between the inconsistent sets. The air is supposed to stay on the chilly side and with the high morning tide, increasing S wind bump, small surf, and cloudy skies it all makes a good argument for staying in bed tomorrow morning. I am pretty sure that I am going to be surfing my pillow

A note on the bigger woollier storm…looks like it will be pushing through Tues/Wednesday…bigger W swell coming through then but with weather coming along with it. More updates will be coming on this one…

Here are the tides…

06:19AM LDT 4.0 H
11:19AM LDT 2.7 L
04:56PM LDT 5.0 H


Jonathan M said...

No Daddy nooooo!

Anonymous said...

Possibly Thursday and Friday going to have cleaner conditions? The Forecast is showing to be overhead on Thursday. is this true?

Anonymous said...

you put that there is something fishy and then you don't explain it... no wonder i use wetsand

Adam Wright said...

hmmm nothing fishy...except maybe that comment.