Friday, August 29, 2008

Swell Semi-Alert - Finally the South Pacific comes back online

Just to head off the hype before it gets started...this isn't a big swell...hell in the scheme of things it probably wouldn't even stand out as much of anything...but considering that we have had a couple of weeks of near flatness it is definitely worth mentioning. So hear it goes.

The details

A few days ago we had a decent storm spin up down in the South Pacific...right around the 40S Latitude and 120W Longitude...which is basically due south of Southern California. The storm made a nice push northward (right at us) as it intensified...eventually capping out with winds around 40-50 knots and nearly 30-foot seas in a fetch that was aimed our direction.

Check out the Wavewatch III swell can see the storm (with the yellow blog just off the coast of Chile) the wave heights are in meters.

Here you can see the swell moving (this map tracks the dominant swell period). Watch the yellow blob move out from the storm area...oh and keep an eye on the darker red (long-period) SW swell that fills in behind the S swell.

Finally here is some QuikSCAT satellite data of the storm as well...this is the core of the fetch that set up a day or two ago.

The surf

I know what you are saying, "gee the charts are pretty but what about the waves?"

Well those are on the way as well...we can expect this new S swell (175-190) to move into SoCal late on Tuesday Sept 2nd...setting up some new waves before sundown.

The peak of the swell will hit on Wednesday September 3rd and hold into Thursday September 4th.

Like I said above it isn't a great swell...I expect the average S facing spots to see surf in the chest-shoulder high+ range with a few inconsistent head high sets.

Standout S facing breaks, mostly through Orange County, will have chest-head high surf with a few head high+ sets sneaking through at the top breaks in the area.

Winds and weather are looking good for this swell (at this point)...and there may even be some background WNW energy to help break it up at the combo while it isn't the biggest swell it should be a lot more fun than we have seen for a couple of weeks.

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