Thursday, November 15, 2007

Friday's Surf...more NW funness-ness

The NW’er in the water was pretty fun on Thursday…I even got a little surf up in HB in the morning…sets were about chest-shoulder high but I heard that the pier and spots north of the pier were a little bigger.

Friday we will actually get a little more WNW swell (it is supposed to start showing in Ventura and maybe LA by sundown tonight…but now it looks like it will build in more overnight and actually be bigger early Friday). NW facing spots will be in the chest-shoulder high range. Standout spots will be bigger with some head high sets mixing in.

Biggest and best shaped surf will hit in Ventura and San Diego. I think points and reefs will be the most fun…but the swell period is short enough that the beach breaks will have some makeable sections as well. Personally I would check the points/reefs first…then if they are too crowded or too soft I would use the beachbreaks as a back-up.

If you don’t have time to get to V-town or SD then take a look at the LA South Bay and North OC both of those areas should be able to pull in some decent waves from this swell mix as well.

My Baja Mexico and NorCal forecasts have been updated too! Check 'em out when you get a chance.


civserv said...


Great Job
For those of us who are getting back into the sport, your blog is perfect.
It is my "go to" site.
I understand we don't want to post actual recommended spots because they will get to crowded, but could you give me some tips on how I would go about learning where in the HB area are the spots you are referencing the most? (i.e., reef vs. sad bar, ones that can handle higher tide, etc.

Any insight would be appreciated.


Yong Jung said...

I agree! Being more specific on the location wouldn't hurt at all!

Adam Wright said...


I am stoked you like the blog!

As for the spots...I can give you a quick run-through on HB...I'll go north to south.

Bolsa - Likes W and S swells. It also likes a lower tide.

Cliffs - Likes NW, W, S, SE swells. Likes a lower tide. You see a lot of shorebreak on the extreme high tides.

HB Pier - Likes WNW, W, SW, S, SE. This is one of the decent sandbars...does ok on most tides...but likes a low- to med-low tide best.

State Beach - Likes WNW, W, SW, S, SE. Shifting sandbars...kind of need to hunt around. Again likes a low to med-low tide.

Santa Ana Rivermouth - Likes WNW, W, SW, S, SE. Very consistent sandbar. Works on all tides...and can be fun even on extremely high tides (with the right swell).

Remember you want to develop "local knowledge"...which is sort of your memory bank of what makes a spot work.

One of the best ways to do this is to go surf...then if was really good that day go home and see what sort of factors went in to making it work that way. Ask yourself: What sort of swell was in the water? How big was it? What were the swell periods? The Winds? And finally what were the tides doing?

You will start to see consistent trends in the conditions that make your spot have fun surf...then when you see the same sort of conditions in the forecast you know that your spot has a chance to be good again.

Hope this helps!