Friday, June 6, 2008

Weekend Waves - SW swell combo fun

Looks like both Saturday and Sunday will be surf days this weekend...(hooray for us!)

We will have a mix of SW swell and some local WNW windswell. Wave heights will hold around waist-chest high for most areas. Standout SW facing spots and good combo breaks will have some shoulder-head high waves on the best sets.

Tides will be a bit of an issue early in the mornings both Saturday and Sunday. We have a negative -1.1' low (at 7am) on Saturday and a -0.8' Low (at 8am) on Sunday. These extreme low tides have a tendency to drain out a lot of the surf, especially the consistency of the sets, it also causes a lot of the beach breaks to get sectiony and walled up.

Fortunately the tides fill in through mid-morning so we get the benefit of a little more water under the surf and the extra little kick that the tide push gives to it.

Winds look OK for both days as well...there will be a slight eddy helping to keep some morning clouds and light and variable S-SE on tap for the first part of the day. W winds around 10-12 knots build in through the afternoons. These are also the kind of days that can potentially clean up around if you live close to the beach (or will be hanging out all day) there is a chance that you might see some cleaner waves around sundown.

Your best bet for waves will be at the combo beach breaks that can handle the tide swing. The biggest surf will be showing through Northern San Diego and South Orange County...but there will be a few decent sized combo spots in other areas as well. I would plan on trying to hit it around mid-morning as the tide comes up and the wind is still light. I would also try and take an open mind because it is going to be crowded...probably really crowded. Personally I am going to check some (probably crappy) wide open beach break to see if I can find a peak with a manageable crowd.

Note on water temps...the water is getting pretty warm in a few areas (at least in North OC). Granted I am sort of built like some sort of a mix between a viking and rugby player but I surfed twice on Friday (in the morning and at lunch) and I trunked it with just a wetsuit top both times. I think most people would be pretty comfortable in a springsuit. (I haven't heard about SB or Ventura water temps...if any of you guys surf up that way drop me an email on how warm/cold the water is).

Have a great weekend...hope you have time to get a couple of waves!


][-][ said...

Water temp in Malibu is cold. I surfed zuma on thursday in a full 3/2 with booties and after 2 hours was chilly. (lifeguards report it around 58)

Anonymous said...

Surfed South Bay today in just boardshorts and rashie, lasted about two hours. It wasn't so much the water, but the wind that did me in. The Life Guard Towers stated 63 degrees.

namotuman said...

6/7 dawn patrol.....shitty south wind from laguna niguel south to tamarack. o'side definitely the biggest, but also the most bump......oh well

Anonymous said...

blacks was pretty sweet this morning 7-9. a little bit of bump out there but there was some size on sets.

Anonymous said...

scripps was clean and PACKED

Adam Wright said...

Saturday in the OC was a mess...I was pretty bummed to the eddy spin up so strongly overnight. Someday I will have a forecasting instruction class...and after the students buy me a few beers I am going to go on a 20-minute rant on why, as a forecaster and a surfer, I hate the eddy. It will be glorious.

Oh I did get out for a bodysurf on Sunday and there was some decent size to it already...and the winds weren't to bad at all...lots of people still out surfing waaaay past noon. (water was still warm too)

namotuman said...

what a difference a day makes, glassy mixed up peaks on sunday morning at the beach break...warm water too!....definite spring suit