Friday, January 8, 2010

Waves for the Weekend – Yes have some!

It will be a surf weekend…and since there is plenty of swell you could probably stop reading right here and still score. (Just stick to the winter spots).

Oh ok I will give you the details…W-WNW swell (270-300) holds into Saturday and then increases on Sunday as another W-WNW swell (270-300) jumps into the mix. There are some small southern hemi swells lurking out there somewhere but I don’t think anyone is going notice them.

On Saturday look for the average W facing breaks to see steady surf in the chest-head high range. The better WNW facing breaks, particularly in the areas known for being good on winter swells, will see consistent shoulder-overhead surf with some sets going a couple of feet overhead at times. The standout WNW-NW facing breaks, (waaaaaaait for it…just a little longer) in Ventura, the South Bay, and San Diego, will have surf in the head high to overhead+ range with consistent sets hitting 2-3’ overhead as well as some bigger sets going several feet overhead mixing in at times.

Winds look good on Saturday…nice and clean in the morning with either calm or light/moderate offshore flow. Winds stay pretty light through the day…sort of variable onshore but below the 8-10 knots range. It looks like the winds will back down a bit around sundown…so I would plan on keeping an eye on conditions near the end of the day.

Sunday a new W-WNW swell (270-300) fills in on the back of the first swell. Average spots are going to build into the shoulder-head high range with overhead sets. WNW facing breaks will see consistent surf around head high+ with sets going 2-3’ overhead. Top winter spots with excellent WNW exposure will be consistently in the overhead to well overhead range…with some bombers sneaking through to keep you on your toes.

Winds look good again on Sunday…more light/variable than offshore in the morning…maybe a touch of light texture at the most exposed areas but not enough to matter. Look for variable winds to hold through most of the day with some slightly more onshore flow through the mid-afternoon. Again it looks like light evening winds, so keep an eye on conditions and you might be able to get a little session before dark.

Shapewise…there is enough swell coming through on both Saturday and Sunday that the beach breaks are going to get pretty lined up. Sure there will be some corners, particularly if your beach break has some decent sandbars (that don’t erode away with the increase in swell), or some sort of structure (Coco!) to break up the shape. Points and Reefs are going to have the best shape, but of course they will be the most crowded too, so it is going to be one of those weekends where you might have to compromise shape for a little extra-elbow room. Anyways there is plenty of energy coming through that I am sure you will be able to find something that will be fun to ride. Make sure to check the regional forecasts for more specific details on your home/favorite breaks.

Regional/County Forecasts

Santa Barbara Surf Forecast
Ventura County Surf Forecast
Los Angeles County Surf Forecast
Orange County Surf Forecast
San Diego Surf Forecast

Here are the tides…have a good weekend...I hope you score a few!

01/09/2010 Saturday
04:27AM LST 5.3 H
12:11PM LST 0.1 L
06:35PM LST 3.0 H
10:49PM LST 2.3 L

01/10/2010 Sunday
05:20AM LST 5.5 H
01:02PM LST -0.3 L
07:33PM LST 3.3 H
11:50PM LST 2.3 L


Anonymous said...

Thanks brother!!
I am honored to be mentioned.
I feel double top secret structures with no Al Merick clones
promoting surfings equivelant of global comunism, will be best.
This swell might even hit shoulder high at Avocadoport.
Bust out your regular short boards,
and milk it with your tortilla chip through the guacamole.
you can call me Nutz!
or Coconutz!

Anonymous said...

Why do you speak so lowly of newport all the time?

Anonymous said...

Because it has the worst surf in California?

Other than a handful of good days in the fall, the place is either blocked by winter swells, is ripped with walled up souths, or the wind is on it early/late.

Why do you think a succession of great surfers (Curren->Marinez->Reynolds, with Slater hanging out) reside/surf in a very specific region?

NB really is a joke. A great place to grow up & learn to surf, but if anyone is serious about surfing, they get the hell out when they figure out what's what.

Anonymous said...

I am frustrated with the El Nino swell track not moving close enough to get into all of OC's nooks and crannies. Fortunately for me and possible unfortunately for you, I was alive and surfed in 82-83 and you may not have been.
I saw how good and consisent this section of coast could be.
Don't take it personally, I am one of the old guys you see when it does rarely get good.
Broham is right serious about surfing, get out while you can (or as soon as you get your drivers license and some wheels I believe in this case). Fall west swells from closer sources of swell made me think it was gonna be an on El nino.
Turned out this winter it has been the biggest tease-joke getting 20 Percent or less of the swell, ever.
See you in some other counties for now, support your local shapers,

Anonymous said...

It's interesting that the waves were biggest early this morning. CDIP has already dropped over 1ft since the peak last night.

Here's hoping the back-end Sunday swell notches up the size again.

Anonymous said...

Oh well, it's hittin' my spots luckily but yeah it's droppin' off. Go LA!


Adam Wright said...

A second swell actually jumps in look for it to go back up.

I am already seeing some of the new bump creep up on the central coast buoys right now.

Anonymous said...

Well Coconutz, I'm either your age or even older. I well remember 82-83, since I had just graduated from UCSB.

Every classic nook & cranny was working up there (cough - El Cap - cough), as well as some true 12' days @ Drakes, Campus Pt & Rincon.

For anyone who has had a chance to surf Calif winter spots like Santa Cruz, Santa Barbara/V-Land, South Bay/PV and San Diego, the whole stretch of OC is a wasteland.

The proof is the fact that not a single guy good enough for the 'CT either comes from (or moves) here, or if they do, they don't stay.

Compare HB/NB to San Clemente, where there are tons of good guys who stay/move there. Something about riding your bike to Lowers or getting to SD in minutes might be a factor, no?.

When you have all day to check/time/plan a surf day in the spots mentioned above, dealing with the small window here, along with a 1-2 hr drive anywhere out if you want/need to go elsewhere, puts a huge dampener on anyone focusing on surfing.

OC is great for a good balanced home life while catching (some) waves. But if you're in the 18-28 age group (which so many guys here seem to be) with little/no responsibilities, you gotta get out and score some good waves - elsewhere.

Anonymous said...

Naw newps gets crazy good surf in winter time, these swells just havnt been as big as forecasted and this el' nino thing really hasnt lived up to the hype, plus there aint a better place in cali then newps in summertime, i think yuh gotta just grow up here and stick to it and learn its secrets (there are many, every stretch of this coastline gets surfable and good)
im old like you guys iv seen most of so cal in winter other then south sd and a few spots in vc and hammer whatever in la not many places in cali get big in winter time, south swells are where its at, and no better place bigger or better shaped then newps,and most of oc as well (accept for sloppy hunington) unless your a malibu or trestles fag who hates getting barreled.

Anonymous said...

There is more to newport then the upper west jettys and river jettys you know. I agree this el gayo needs to stop pretendin.

Thanks adam for the great forecast's

Anonymous said...

Right on for a lively chat except for the imature little dork calling Newps crazy good and calling out nonexistent "malibu and tresttles fags who hate getting berelled".
That type of comment shows you don't have a high school diploma and a lot of growing up to do.
You do not represent the core of Newport surfers and we disown you.
Grow up if you wanna chat, surf and hang with the established Newport crew and all other surfers around the world.
Peace and respect to all surfers! from the real Newport Core,
shaka! Bros!

Anonymous said...

North San Diego was hopelessly walled and closed out today. Usually can handle a 6-8' swell, but maybe the swell direction isn't optimal.