Sunday, January 17, 2010

Messy Monday – Lots of wind and rain

Monday will not be a surf day…in fact (if you hadn’t already guessed considering Sunday Night’s conditions) it will be pretty craptacular in more ways than one.

The swell will be on the way up thanks to the increasing amount of storm swell associated with the current weather, and some longer-period energy being pushed out by the larger system that is still moving in.



Wave heights…sort of hard to gauge since there will be a bunch of really short-period chop tearing things up…but overall the swell energy will be increasing both from the local S-SW windswell, and in the form of longer-period W-WNW energy from the storm as it was tracking across the mid-latitudes. It won’t be super-sized on Monday but it will be coming up…likely setting up some consistent overhead, but very sloppy surf, for the exposed spots.

Winds and weather will be super poop…the models are showing rain throughout the day and the possibility of gale-force winds through parts of the day. Oh there may be a few really protected spots, protected from the S-SW winds (particularly if the winds are more S than SW), but the water quality is going to be nasty, and thanks to the continuing rain, will probably just get worse as more of our sewage/run-off infrastructure gets overloaded.



Tomorrow isn’t going to be particularly interesting from a surf perspective…it won’t be huge, it will be blown out, and spending any real time checking it will probably be a waste. Personally I would just check a cam or two…and go back to bed (if you have the day off). Later in the week, around Wednesday, the swell will get a lot bigger (the weather will still be crap) but at least there will be something worth checking out. Check out what is lining up off the coast…that is a lot of red for being right up next to California.



Tides-shmides…it will be high around brunchtime, other than that we don’t really need them.

I am skipping the regional stuff tonight…expect messy conditions pretty much everywhere with slightly less messy conditions at spots that can block out some of the S-SW winds.

2 comments:

Anonymous said...

I dunno man, as of 6:15 am, winds are due east and mostly below 10 mph everywhere from north OC to Point Mugu. Will I die from the water though?

BWDinHB said...

Why don't you go out and let us know how it was. Then check back in 24-48 hours and let us know how yr feeling.