Tuesday, January 19, 2010

Well hello there.

So this swell is starting to hit the outer buoys pretty hard this morning...and you can see how this new energy is affecting the CDIP models. The Harvest Buoy for example is running around 22-feet at 18-20 seconds and San Nicolas is seeing about the same size.

The energy on both buoys is showing a more WNW-NW'erly swell direction, with the peak of the energy running around 290-300.

Anyways...this is pretty giant...and we can expect more of this energy to hit the coast over the next several hours...showing strong through the evening (and overnight into Wednesday). The steeper 290-300 degree swell direction means that the strictly W facing breaks will be considerably smaller than the directly exposed WNW-NW breaks. (Just to keep in mind if you are looking to find big waves).

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