Thursday, February 19, 2009

Surf for Friday – less work more surfing

Friday is looking pretty surfable.

We have some swell in the water, winds will be light in the morning, and, if things hold together long enough for the tide to drop, we should have some fun zippy shape.

I even got a session in on Thursday...a few little dumpy peaks on the lunchtime low tide. (I even dared my immune system by surfing close to a rivermouth...but now a feel a bit funkier than normal). Anyway it was fun, and sort of racy, and the water was brown and cold, which is what I expected.

On Friday we can expect a mix of WNW energy (275-300) from all over the place...some is from over the dateline, some is from storms just under the Aleutians, and some is from the nice little storm we just had form up off the coast. There is also some SW southern hemi swell in the background that is helping to round out the swell mix.

Surfwise we can expect some building sizes won’t be huge but it will be bigger than Thursday. Look for the average WNW facing breaks and decent combo spots to see surf in the chest-shoulder high range tomorrow...maybe even a few bigger sets when the swells mix right.

Standout NW facing spots and top combo breaks, which have the most exposure to the swell, will be in the shoulder-head high range fairly consistently on the sets...and then some bigger, potentially head high+ surf, on the lower tides in the afternoon.

Winds and weather look good...mostly light and variable to light offshore for the morning. NW winds around 10-12+ knots for the afternoon.

Size and consistency are going to depend on the spot tomorrow...breaks in San Diego, Ventura, and a few of the really well exposed spots in the other areas, are going to see the most size tomorrow. The winter spots in those regions will be the most consistent but you should have fun at the combo spots as well. Points/Reefs/Beach Breaks should all be working tomorrow but I think the points/reefs will have slightly better shape...the beach breaks may get walled up on the lower tides. The wind may start to get to it a little before lunch so try and weigh the “tide shape” vs the wind bump and see if you can some middle ground.

Here are the tides...

12:09AM LST 2.5 L
06:02AM LST 4.8 H
01:30PM LST -0.3 L
08:00PM LST 3.5 H

On a personal note I want to give a big Congrats to my good friend Scott, who reads the forecasts and just had a baby girl (but since he is flying a Blackhawk in Iraq hasn’t had a chance to see her in person yet). Congratulations Scott! Welcome to fatherhood man!


Anonymous said...

les du dis thang!

Anonymous said...

Newport sucked this morning!

Steve said...

Porto was very good. A little waiting between sets but good racy, makeable, head high+ walls coming through.