Friday, December 18, 2009

Surf Photos: A few road trip shots

Got up there early, just in time for sunrise, and stepped out of the truck and right into this set.

This was my only nearby crowd for a while

Then a few more humans cruised out…

And eventually it turned into this…

Later, after the nap, I paddled out at a different point, much bigger crowd but better shape thanks to the dropping tide and the lovely sandbar on the inside. I shot these afterwards, but was a little too far away for the lens I had and the camera shake, even with the tripod, starts to make a few of them look like they have gone through too many photoshop filters.

I will probably have a few more to post up before too long.


Anonymous said...

Hey good to see you visited the neighborhood on your road trip. Despite the crowds, you can snag quite a few if you get there early enough.

Anonymous said...

Goofy foot galore on #9 ...Great pics. You scored!

Surf School Los Angeles said...

By the looks of the green water it kind of looks like Hunington Beach. Is it?

Anonymous said...

surf school los angeles: please leave LA and don't come back

Anonymous said...

Surf School Los Angeles, please stay in la, do not venture south to my county, thank you.

Anonymous said...

Surf School Los Angeles: It's one of those small jetties near LAX. It's like this alway! Please stay in LA.

Anonymous said...

I think it's hilarious that SoCal bloggers won't name the spots that they post pictures of. Especially if the spot is already crowded. Like, we're all going to converge on whatever beach looked good that day because we've never, ever been there before?

How about this: Since most of the spots that aren't always crowded anyway aren't usually very good, NAME THEM when they are good. Then, if the paranoiac theory that doing that will attract more surfers is true, they'll show up and most likely be disappointed, thus discouraging them from returning.

They'll also tell their friends that the blog pictures were hype, discouraging others from visiting.

Antagonistic local-ism sucks, but locals know what's up at their breaks and outsiders probably know that conditions will change over night.

But let's say that everything, swell, tide, winds, etc. were forecasted to remain the same for several days, and on the first day, a blogger posted pictures of how great it was at some spot that was named. Would that really be the only spot that was going off? Probably not. And we locals would be surfing our usual breaks, and "outsiders" would be cruising as usual.

What if my local break was going off and featured on a blog? It would be cool to see the pictures. I really doubt that guys from Hermosa would pack up and go to Bay St., or that guys at Blackies would suddenly start heading up to Zero's based on a picture from the day before.

Does anybody really think that naming a SoCal surf spot, none of which have been "secret" for years and years, on a blog will attract more people?

Here's what attracts more people to surfing at your local or "secret" spot: Surf mags, the puppets of the surf product industry; pro surf contests, which, as in the "sport" of golf, serve only to sell products and allow the elite to practice their craft anywhere in the world while you and I have to deal with more and more fad-adherent wannabes at our home breaks. The owners of the companies and their sponsored stars can afford to go anywhere and surf uncrowded waves, while we're stuck dealing with the people who they need to boost their annual sales growth projections.

The surf product companies, Billabong, Quicksilver, Rip Curl ( my favorite wetsuit maker), etc. need to have more and more people in the water surfing to increase their profits.

That would be OK if they were also providing more water (surf spots) to their customers. But no, the billion dollar surf industry isn't doing any thing to alleviate the crowding in SoCal.

OK, Pratt's Reef didn't work out, but that doesn't mean that the technology can't be tweaked. More rideable spots would thin out the crowds everywhere. And the surf product companies could sustain some growth (although we all wish the surfing fad would die).

So, just say where the pictures were taken (most of us know where they were taken, anyway) and lobby the surf product makers to DO SOMETHING to create more rideable waves to accommodate all of their customers.

donny said...

last Anonymous comment was hilarious...if you believe that, you're an idiot. The cell phone and the internet ruined surfing. Surfing is the new golf. I don't know why people can't just go surfing without feeling the need to document it and post it up.
Usually the guys crying in the lineup about the crowd are the guilty ones that do post up the session afterwards and call all of their friends before they suit up. Anonymous, go suck an egg.

Anonymous said...

Anoymost ranter,
Surf in secrecy,
forget about your ego!

Anonymous said...

Yeah, blame the cell phone and the internet. Hands off the greedy millionaires that "promote" surfing. No one would be SUPing if they hadn't heard about it from somebody calling on their cell phone. I think art. reefs are a pretty good idea, if they're done right. Lots of 'em.