Thursday, August 20, 2009

Friday’s Surf – Building SW swell and a touch of wind

Friday will start off small and inconsistent for most areas…so the early morning won’t be much of a surf day.

However, new SW swell (200-220) will be filling in slowly throughout the day and will help build wave heights as we move into the afternoon. Local NW windswell will also be on the rise but it will be pretty steeply angled (295-300+) and won’t ad much to our surf.

In the morning expect most spots to be in the knee-waist high range, with the sets being fairly inconsistent at times. Standout SW facing spots in San Diego and South Orange County may have rare waist-chest high sets as we move through the early morning low tide.

By the afternoon the SW’er will be starting to get more energy into our exposed spots. The swell will still be pretty SW so don’t expect all of the summer spots to be working…North OC in particular will be shadowed on this part of the swell. By the afternoon/evening we can expect the average spots to start to pull in more consistent waist-chest high sets. Standouts will be more in the chest high range with shoulder high sets becoming more consistent as we head toward sundown.

The winds will be a touch funky tomorrow…the forecast models are calling for some onshore texture from the W-WNW in the morning. Not completely blown out…sort of in the 4-6 knot range for many areas…maybe a touch stronger at the more exposed beaches in SD and OC. The WNW wind is expected to build fast, eventually coming onshore 12-15 knots by the afternoon. This funk is expected to hold around into Saturday but lets cross our fingers that it moves out faster than the models are saying.

So a slow start tomorrow…slow and possibly textured. Personally I would give the surf cams a check before driving very far for a dawn patrol session. I still think that you are going to want to stick to the small-wave or fishy shapes through the morning…but we might be able to start to bust out the normal boards later in the day.

Here are the tides…

04:30AM LDT -0.7 L
10:38AM LDT 5.3 H
04:34PM LDT 0.7 L
10:30PM LDT 5.9 H

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