Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Waves for Thursday – mostly leftovers

Thursday is sort of the fence of being a “surf day”.

On one hand there will still be a little mix of leftover SW swell (190-220) and weak WNW windswell in the water, the waters temps will be warm, and the beach air temps will be nice. On the other hand there will still be a bit of eddy texture and the tides stay a bit too high throughout the cleanest wind period in the morning.

Basically I am expecting rideable but sort of gutless, and slightly textured, knee-waist surf for most of the average spots on Thursday. A few of the top spots in South OC and Northern San Diego will have some inconsistent chest high sets, but will likely see the same gutless textured shape (just slightly bigger on the sets).

Winds will start off with the eddy flow...sort of light/variable through Ventura and the South Bay with some S flow/texture through OC and San Diego. The wind models aren’t as strong as they were for Wednesday but don’t count out a little bit of bump showing at the open beaches. WNW winds around 10-14 knots return in the afternoon. Here is a shot of the COAMPS model showing the winds around 7-8am...

I think that small wave gear is the best call tomorrow. If you have a spot with a little better SW exposure you might be able to get away with your normal board, but you will probably have more fun with fishy shapes or boards with a little more foam. Expect long waits between the bigger waves...and try to stick with spots that like a little bit more tide.

Here are the tides...

12:17AM LDT 0.8 L
07:04AM LDT 3.0 H
10:28AM LDT 2.7 L
05:19PM LDT 5.1 H


Anonymous said...

Adam, OT: do you find it odd that there has yet to be any video/stills released of Malibu during the past swell?

As I predicted, there were whitewater sets hitting the bottom of HB Pier and Lowers was washing out on the larger sets.

That leaves Malibu. I did see one 30 sec clip taken by a tourist from the pier at high tide and a couple of guys where making it the entire way at that point.

My guess is that is was completely epic and the guys holding the video/stills are going through formal publishing channels ($).

It's weird (or makes sense) that most of the pics released so far are of Newps, which of course was completely unrideable & a waste of time.

Many moons ago, I recall standing in Greg Liddle's shop staring at some large blown up b/w photo posters of epic swells from the 50s & 60s. I mean, lines to the horizon sweeping around the point.

The really good stuff is being held back. There's gonna be at least one classic iconic photo that captures the essence of this swell.

Anonymous said...

like somebody said earlier, all people take pics of is newps. why? i have no friggin idea.

Anonymous said...

Where can I see pictures/videos of this past weekend swell?? Thanks...

Chris said...

As for the long term forecast idea, I think it wold be better to make an additional blog for the long range. I really like how yours is set up right now so that I can know pretty much as exact as possible as the surf will be tomorrow. Plus with another site everyone would be checking both. Extra advertising pennies BOOYYYY!!!