Monday, June 15, 2009

Surf for Tuesday – S swell continues (and gets a little more SW)

Tuesday will be a surf day...but like Monday you are going to need to find a spot that can help break up the swell...otherwise it is just walls-o-rama and the current-paddle-treadmill.

No joke...at about 10 a.m. I took a drive from HB State Beach all the way up through Bolsa Chica, which is a pretty darn big stretch of beach break, and I think I counted 10 guys out surfing through the whole stretch. Mostly it was just overhead section walls and a current that was probably rolling around 10 knots on the inside. Anyway I just thought I would share...until this swell starts to back down a bit you might want to avoid the really open beach breaks.

Swellwise on Tuesday we are going to see the S-swell (170-190) continue to hold while SW swell (200-220) peaks.



Wave heights will continue to run around shoulder-head high at the average S-SW facing spots. Standout S facing breaks through Orange County, North San Diego, and Northern LA, will have overhead sets. In a few of the spots that can really focus the S swell mix look for sets going a couple feet+ overhead at times.

Winds will be ok...sort of slight-eddyish...so variable to light southerly through the morning but mostly below 5-6 knots. Winds shift SW-W around 10-15 knots for the afternoon.



Points and reefs are going to continue to be the best call on Tuesday...we just need something to break up the swell. The piers/jetties will be a good fallback but I would rate them as a far second choice compared to some long point somewhere. Just an FYI to OC surfers...the NSSA Nationals are back in town for this week...they are going to be at Salt Creek the 17-20th and then at Lower Trestles the 22-27th. I just wanted to give you guys a heads up if you were planning on surfing those spots since water access might be a bit limited.

Here are the tides

03:43AM LDT 3.1 H
09:56AM LDT 1.3 L
04:51PM LDT 4.6 H

Oh you might want to check out the Daily Bread blog...he has some sick shots of the swell hitting this morning.

4 comments:

Anonymous said...

yummy!

deckmanx said...

The current is insane right now.

Anonymous said...

kamikazee death drops at my beachbreak this morning. holy crap! young psychos were getting barreled but I figured I'd live to surf another day. yeah, and the current was ridiculous, too.

Anonymous said...

i'll stick to shorebreak white water.