Thursday, June 11, 2009

Surf for Friday – peaking SW swell and some eddy funk

Friday will be a surf day but you are going to need to be a little picky about your spots.

The SW swell (200-220) that was filling in on Thursday will start to peak on Friday, and turn a little more southerly as it fills in. We will have some minor NW windswell in the background but I don’t expect it to break up much of the SW’er.



Wave heights will be in the chest-shoulder high range for most spots with SW exposure. The top SW facing spots, mostly through South Orange County, North San Diego, and Northern LA, will have shoulder-head high surf with inconsistent plus sets at the standout breaks. Expect a little inconsistency on the sets sometimes...and watch for shadowing from the nearshore islands. If you surf in one of the shadow areas (that you can see on the CDIP map) expect smaller and less consistent sizes.

Winds are also going to be a bit funky. Local forecasts are showing the eddy circulation spin up again tonight. Look for variable onshore winds...sort of S-SW ...but below 10 knots for the morning. It will be enough to crumble up the more exposed breaks so try and find a spot with some protection. WNW winds 10-15 knots will blow through in the afternoon.

The SW’er was already showing some decent energy on Thursday and these sizes will continue into Friday, getting a little bigger and more consistent. The beach breaks are going to be pretty lined up so if you can’t surf a point or reef, try and find some sort of “structure” (for coconutz) or sandbar to try and break up the lines.

Here are the tides...hope you guys get some.

07:15AM LDT 0.0 L
02:08PM LDT 3.5 H
06:32PM LDT 2.7 L

7 comments:

dave said...

i vote for structures too

Anonymous said...

More of the natural kind, though. I got a few fun waves yesterday as the swell filled in. Should be fun this weekend. Since there's gonna be waves for at least the next 5-6 days, hopefully everyone take a chill pill.

Chris said...

Plenty of fun at the PB sandbars this morning - lefts and rights galore!

Anonymous said...

www.wetsand.com rules

Anonymous said...

Eddie would Eddy!

Anonymous said...

wetsand sucks!!!

Anonymous said...

Thanks Adam,
I was only half serious but it created some fun blogging.
As always thanks for your blog.
Shaka, Coconutz!