Tuesday, March 30, 2010

Waves for Wednesday – Some Wind, Some Rain, and Some more WNW-NW swell

Wednesday is not looking like much of a surf day. Onshore winds are forecast to stay pretty steady tonight (out of the W) and hold through most of the day tomorrow. Rain and more wind is expected to move in Wednesday afternoon/evening.

Swellwise we are going to have a mix of building local NW windswell and some increasing WNW-NW medium-period energy (280-300) both coming off this storm that will be moving through. There will be some small SW swell in the background but most spots won’t notice much of the energy.



Most spots will see some sort of increase surfwise tomorrow…but most of the new size will be local windswell/stormswell and it won’t be doing much to help shape. Sure there may be a few hidden pockets of protected breaks (particularly in the morning)…but those spots won’t be as exposed to the windswell if they are protected from the winds. Average WNW-NW breaks will likely hold around chest-head high while the best exposed NW facing breaks see some shoulder-overhead surf with some sets reaching a couple of feet overhead by the afternoon. (it looks like this swell will peak overnight into Thursday.)

Winds are forecast to be out of the W around 10-15 knots for the morning…with exposed areas hitting 20-25 knot gusts by the afternoon. Rain will push down from Santa Barbara in the morning and eventually hit most of Socal by the late afternoon…it should be a fairly cold airmass along with it…so snow levels could be dropping (so local mountains could get some new snow).



Looking at the charts and models isn’t giving me a lot of hope for tomorrow…but since there is swell in the water I always recommend at least looking at the cameras (or wind observations) to make sure that a surfable window hasn’t opened up at your usual spots. The westerly winds are able to junk up most spots but there may be a pocket or two at the really well protected breaks. Personally I will be getting up and checking stuff out early just to make sure that the storm hasn’t stalled out…but I will probably be going back to bed.

No county level forecasts today…there are only so many ways to write blown-out before it gets tedious.

Here are the tides…

03/31/2010 Wednesday
04:52AM LDT -0.9 L
10:54AM LDT 4.3 H
04:33PM LDT 0.8 L
10:40PM LDT 5.8 H

15 comments:

Anonymous said...

Why if its windy is it not a surf day?

Anonymous said...

Because the wind blows off the cold layer above the ocean water and piles them together so that it's almost freezing... if you get hit by one of these gusts, YOU WILL get icicles hanging from your nose and your eyes and nose will be frozen shut.

Most people don't know, if you wear a 7mm wetsuit with a hoodie, gloves and boots, you can still go out and surf (likely all by yourself!!!)

Anonymous said...

Dude, you can't give away info like that... or the spots will get crowded when conditions are best!

Since you already blew it: don't forget to pee in your wetsuit BEFORE you enter the water, so you stay warm the whole session...

Anonymous said...

Why if its windy is it not a surf day?

Depends on the type of surfing to which you're referring.

There's a whole crew that avidly watch Adam's forecasts and show up when he predicts gusts will exceed 25mph.

You should see them along the PCH struggling with all their gear. They do get great aerials - 360s, etc.

Anonymous said...

windy 360's > clean cutbacks

Anonymous said...

Too bad its only like waist high

Anonymous said...

Too bad its only like waist high.

Doesn't matter - these guys are pulling 20' airs. I've seen some travel 50 yards per jump.

Anonymous said...

I still don't understand why all the reports were all over the place today? Everything was working fine at the beach till about 9:30-10am. Freezing but still fun.

Anonymous said...

Why if its windy is it not a surf day?

Winds are not always bad, it's the direction that kills. If the wind is strong onshore, you get a very short period chop that is very difficult to surf. If the wind is offshore, the waves stand up better, creating better, more rippable faces

That being said, I went out this AM and it was fun and empty, if a little bumpy. Not much push, but there was some size.

Anonymous said...

The best video parts are filmed on windy days?
True though it was only about waist-stomach high at certin windswell spot in asdfghjk county this morning, hopefully the size shows up tomorrow?

greg said...

i'm really mad i didn't try and go out this morning. i love surfing with icicles from my nose and it def wasnt as bumpy as i thought it would be.

also, it's better to pee ON your wetsuit (inside out) before you put it on, that way the whole thing is all nice and warm when you get in. or let the dolphins pee on your while youre in the water...

Anonymous said...

Dolphin golden showers, is that a new fetish? ;)
those kinky dolphins really freak Adam out.......

Anonymous said...

no no no, your supposed to poo on your wet-suit then smear it around real well. that will bring any 3/2 suit up to a 4/3 if done properly.morons

Anonymous said...

Urine down my leg
icicles pierce my scrotum
must be dawn patrol

greg said...

that was an amazing haiku...