Tuesday, March 23, 2010

Waves for Wednesday – the Combo swell continues

Wednesday will be a surf day.

In the water we will have a mix of SW swell (200-220), some NW swell (290-300), and a little dash of local WNW windswell…all of which are blending nicely together at the better exposed beaches. There are a few shadowing issues here and there…so make sure that you pick an area that is getting the full exposure. Check out the current “Nowcast” from the CDIP…

And here is what it is going to look like tomorrow...

Average spots will have surf in the waist-chest high range with some inconsistent chest-shoulder high sets if the break has a little combo exposure. The best SW facing spots and the best combo spots will be in the shoulder-head high range with some inconsistent overhead sets mixing in on the lower tides.

Winds look good on Wednesday…we will start off with mostly light and variable winds, even some light offshore flow in a few spots. Expect some pockets of patchy fog. This will burn off by the afternoon but the winds will shift onshore around the same time…and come in out of the NW at 10-15 knots along the really exposed breaks.

Looks fun tomorrow…there will be plenty of waves at the exposed areas…and some decent size at the standouts. Orange County and parts of San Diego are going to be the most exposed to this swell mix…but LA and Ventura will have their pockets of awesomeness as well. Santa Barbara gets a bit left out…but after all the west swells this winter I am not feeling all that bad for them. The tide is a little high in the morning so if you are venturing out to get it right at dawn you might want to stick with spots that can handle a little extra water.

I’m skipping the regional forecasts tonight…but they should be back in action tomorrow.

Have a good one…send me some photos if you get some good ones (and surf reports…I love surf reports).

03/24/2010 Wednesday
04:21AM LDT 4.6 H
12:16PM LDT -0.2 L
07:04PM LDT 3.5 H
11:51PM LDT 2.2 L


Gary said...
This comment has been removed by the author.
Gary said...

Adam, I noticed you said you liked surf reports. I do one most everyday at http://cssr-gary.blogspot.com. It's primary focus is 15th street in Del Mar.

Anonymous said...

nice, dude, but your report is for about 8am every morning. for us early surfers, that's a little too late. i'm more than halfway done with my session by then. thanks though. (this is not Adam, by the way)

Anonymous said...

Well, that was one of the saddest things I've seen in my long surfing career. Really brings home the meaning of "you should have been here yesterday".

Since the swell was dropping, I decided to stay local in combo-land. Wow - sometimes CDIP is really off.

And what is impossible to describe is the wind chopped, high tide, gray water/wind + 100s of eager lemmings who probably had heard abut yesterday.

Let's just say that this morning was a $100 day. That is, I wouldn't suit up, paddle out & catch 3 waves even if someone offered me 100 bucks.

OTH, I would have gladly payed $100 bucks just for the chance to noodle-arm back up the point and forcing myself to whip around and no-paddle take off on my 3rd wave of a well OH 50 wave set that poured in for 10 minutes.

Anonymous said...

I might add that if anyone doubts a 50 wave set, perhaps Adam can explain the phenomenon in more detail.

Basically, when you get a very-long period swell (18-20 seconds) coming from 5,000 miles away, you're gonna get two things:

* really long lulls - the wait yesterday was 10-20 minutes between sets
* a large number of waves per set

In essence, wave trains are created by those waves that manage to both make it around the SPAC islands & survive the distance. They get a lot of time to arrange themselves into trains, so even though the wait is long, the waves per set are numerous.

It also why it's absolutely critical to be in the right spot when they come - there aren't any second chances.

That's why old-pros wear watches and intently stare back at land. They are keeping track of when the next set is due, and making sure to be in the exact right spot while compensating for drift, etc. There's no real need to constantly look out to sea since others will do that for you.

If you miss the first few waves or get caught inside, you're gonna get nothing but white water + another 20 minute wait. But if you get in the flow, and kick out at the right spot, you'll get noodle armed catching multi-waves per set.

Anonymous said...

So Adam, up here in Ventura County there was lots of surf yesterday (Tues) morning, while today it seems to have gone flat.

Was it the larger short period windswell? or the long period SW? or that mid period mid-size NW groundswell? In Ventura it felt like the SW was dominant...but that doesn't explain Rincon, Pitas, Overhead, does it?

Anonymous said...

completely hacked for the morning too bad newps was trying overhead on the sets but that SSE wind was holdin back the magic of yesterday

Anonymous said...

Hey how come newport is circled when its probably pullin in some of the biggest waves on the south?

Anonymous said...

another sewage spill at Doheny, I should've slept in this morning

Anonymous said...

so sorry fellars! south san diego was super fun this morning. glassy and very consistent 3-5 footers all morning. :)

Anonymous said...

san clemente wasn't too consistant but def got some 3-5ft bombs. was fun slight offshores till about 8:30 then light southwest