Tuesday, April 21, 2009

Wednesday’s Waves – Starting off slow...really slow

I don’t think that Wednesday is going to be too much of a surf morning...but we will have some new sets slowly filling in through the afternoon.

The swell models are showing our new S-SSW swell (180-210) arriving slowly throughout the day on Wednesday...but I think they are being a little optimistic with the swell period, which they have running at 22-seconds for the start of this swell. Likely what we are going to see is that long-period energy on the buoys in the morning but not much on the beach until later in the day... (and really the swell will be peaking Thursday and Friday at the exposed spots).

Here is a super weather nerd picture...so please skip this section if you just want the surf for tomorrow. This is the actual text output from WavewatchIII (for the 46224 output if it means anything to you guys)...in that part I circled is the new swell...from left to right you have wave height (in meters), swell period, and direction (you have to add 180-degrees for a proper swell angle)...oh and the times are in zulu time which is always a pain in the ass. Anyways it shows that while there are some longer periods there isn’t a ton of “size” behind it tomorrow...at least according to the model and in this case I actually think the computer is overcalling it a bit for tomorrow...

So for actual surf sizes tomorrow...expect a slow dawn patrol with lots of spots holding in the knee high range, and the top spots seeing some rare waist high sets. It will be extra-soft thanks to the higher tide that peaks right at 8am...but we will see some improvement as the tide drops and the swell fills in.

Winds look good...mostly light and variable through the morning. W-winds around 10-12+ knots for the afternoon.

I think that you should take the morning slow...there isn’t going to be much out there (and the tide will kill what is left)...so you will basically be in the water to enjoy the weather/experience rather than surfing. If you were going to be a bit more opportunistic...I would keep an eye on the cameras and the winds during the afternoon as the swell starts to fill in a bit more.

Here are the tides

02:18AM LDT 0.5 L
08:09AM LDT 4.1 H
02:07PM LDT 0.7 L
08:13PM LDT 5.2 H

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