Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Thursday’s Surf – Is the new S here yet? How ‘bout now? Ok, Now? What about now?

Thursday will be rideable…but will probably be a bit on the small side to really call it a surf day for everyone.

Thursday morning will see a mix of local WNW-NW swell and a touch of background SW swell (190-220). This mix, which is already on the small side, will have some tidal issues as well, so watch out for some swampthing as the tide peaks. By the afternoon a new S-SSW swell (180-200) will start to show some very long-period energy (20-22 second stuff) that will begin to filter into the exposed areas.

Most spots will be in the waist-high range with some chest high sets. The NW standouts (mostly in South San Diego) will see some chest-shoulder high sets at the breaks that like the NW windswell. S facing breaks will be smaller…mostly knee-waist high with a few chest high sets at the best breaks through the morning. By the afternoon the S facing spots will be more consistently waist-chest high with some shoulder high sets showing at the top breaks.

Winds look good for the morning…mostly light and variable to light offshore from Ventura on down to San Diego…Santa Barbara may have a little leftover westerly funk. Look for WNW-NW winds around 10-15 knots to build in through the afternoon.

So sort of slow start in the morning…but we have the new S swell filling in through the 2nd half of the day. In my experience with these types of swells…particularly the long-period S swells…we generally see some bigger, but inconsistent sets starting to arrive at the top breaks that can focus this longer-period swell. We shouldn’t expect a universal jump at all S facing breaks, but there will be a few blips starting to show around the end of the day. This swell will fill in more on Thursday night and eventually peak Friday through Saturday.

05/13/2010 Thursday
03:49AM LDT -0.7 L
10:03AM LDT 3.6 H
02:57PM LDT 1.7 L
09:05PM LDT 5.9 H


Anonymous said...

Stiff eddy breeze, didnt notice any south swell just windswell junk (is this the windiest spring ever?) Perhaps if ed shuts down and the south swell starts to fill in evening could be fun.
Hey adam does this years windy spring (more so than usual windy spring) have anything to do with el' nino?
Always enjoy the forecast's btw thank you

Anonymous said...

question to the last anonymous, do you really think it is eddy winds that junk up the afternoon waves each day?...............and I want an honest answer!

Anonymous said...

No eddys come in the morning thats why i said evening could be fun.
Cmon brah