Weekend Waves - Even more SW swell (yeah for swell!)

Saturday and Sunday will both be surf days.

Saturday is going to see a mix of steady SW swell (190-220) and some background local NW windswell. Most spots will continue to see chest-shoulder high surf while the standouts in Orange County and San Diego see shoulder-head high+ waves.

Sunday there will actually be another SW pulse (200-220) joining the mix, overlapping the existing SW swell, all of which will blend with the background NW windswell. Sunday expect a touch more size as the average exposed breaks build into chest-head high surf and the standout SW facing breaks move back into the consistent head high and overhead ranges.

Weather and winds look very similar to Friday...expect mostly light/variable to light S winds and overcast skies through the mornings and W-NW winds around 10-15 knots (along with sunny skies) during the afternoons. Depending on how strong wind circulation is throughout the day, you may see the wind lay down really late in the afternoon/evening...not enough for a glass-off but worth keeping an eye on if you live close to the beach.

SW facing points and reefs will be the best call this weekend...(if the beach breaks had a chance it was on Friday but the ones in my neck of the woods never really started working all that well...just a lot of lumpy closed out lefts and super short rights through the wind creases). South Orange County and North San Diego will see the biggest sizes...and probably the best shape thanks to all those quality points and reefs they have around those areas. There will be some decent waves at the top SW facing spots in other areas but expect the surf to be smaller and less consistent.

I would try and get on it early...both to avoid the crowd factor and to try and beat the wind that has been screwing up the shape by midday. Spots with a little protection from the southerly winds will probably be a safer call than the wide-open breaks...just so you can avoid the eddy texture if the winds spin up too much overnight.

Have a great weekend and an excellent Father's Day!

(oh and check back I will be posting the San Onofre Break Maps this weekend)

Tuesday's Surf - Solid SW swell...yeah for waves!

Hope you guys got out to surf on Monday...there was quite a bit of SW swell showing out there...(in fact it was a little bigger and bit more consistent than I was expecting.)

I got a lot of feedback from all over SoCal, but particularly from surfers in the OC and San Diego, that there were some good-sized overhead+ sets coming through. North LA was a bit smaller but had some decent shape (if you didn't mind the 4 trillion people sitting on the shoulder and burning you). I even saw a few lefts grinding back up The Point at C-Street in Ventura. If anyone got some pictures...send them over I will post 'em up.

Here is a shot of the CDIP model from Monday afternoon. (Actually look really close at the Santa Barbara area...how sad is that tiny blue dot that is right next to Santa Barbara Harbor...oh well they get good waves in the winter)





Anyway on to the forecast.

Tuesday will be a surf day...with lots of surf at the SW facing breaks.

Surfwise we are going to see the second part of this SW swell start to arrive and peak throughout the day. This new pulse of energy will actually combine right in with the existing SW swell and the mix of WNW windswell that we have holding in the background.

Average breaks with SW exposure will see surf in the chest-shoulder high+ range...with some head high sets on the tide push that comes through after the tide bottoms out midmorning.

Standout SW facing spots in San Diego and Orange County will have consistent surf in the shoulder-head high range with sets going a couple of feet overhead (and bigger) sneaking through inconsistently.

Winds will be ok...there will be some pockets of southerly flow from a weak coastal eddy but in general winds are forecast to be light and variable in the morning. W winds around 10-12 knots build in through the afternoon.

There is enough swell in the water that it is going to be worth spending a little of the gas money to find waves tomorrow. The biggest surf is definitely going to be showing in OC and San Diego. I would look for the best shape at the points and reefs...beach breaks are going to be a bit lined up/closed out and you can expect a pretty strong current (along with dangerous riptides) at the more exposed beaches. Plan on a lot of paddling tomorrow.

If you can't surf Tuesday don't sweat it...there will be plenty of waves from this swell hitting all week.

Have fun and be safe...sorry to sound like your dad...unless of course your dad rips.