Basically the ocean is getting hit with the ugly stick right now.
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Showing posts with label ugly stick. Show all posts
Showing posts with label ugly stick. Show all posts
Monday, December 15, 2008
Random Morning Update - Ouch!
This may be one of the worst COAMPS observations that I have ever seen. It isn't a forecast model...this was built using real observations at 5am this morning.
Basically the ocean is getting hit with the ugly stick right now.
Basically the ocean is getting hit with the ugly stick right now.
Tuesday, July 8, 2008
Wednesday's Surf - Clean and fun
Wednesday is looking like a surf day.
Our surf will drop a touch as we move into Wednesday and the mix of S-SW energy slowly fades and the local NW windswell backs off.
Most spots with some exposure will be in the knee-waist high range throughout the day with a few chest high sets on the morning tide push.
Top spots, mostly in OC and Northern San Diego, will have some waist-chest high waves with some chest-shoulder high sets on that same tide push.
Winds are forecast to be really light tomorrow...mostly light/variable to a little bit of light offshore flow in the morning. Afternoon winds are forecast to be light as well...coming in out of the W but staying below 10 knots for most of the day.
While it won't be huge I do think it is going to be sort of fun tomorrow...particularly with the right gear. I would try and get on it around the bottom of the low tide (around 8:30am) then surf for a little bit as the tide fills in and brings a few bigger and more consistent sets. The combo beach breaks with good sandbars will likely have the best shape but you may find a few fun ones on the better lower tide reefs as well. I would still try and bring the small wave gear...basically boards that work well in waist-chest high waves...that way you can make the most out of your session while you are waiting for the bigger sets.
As promised here are the pictures of the "ugly stick"...is it not beautiful?
Our surf will drop a touch as we move into Wednesday and the mix of S-SW energy slowly fades and the local NW windswell backs off.
Most spots with some exposure will be in the knee-waist high range throughout the day with a few chest high sets on the morning tide push.
Top spots, mostly in OC and Northern San Diego, will have some waist-chest high waves with some chest-shoulder high sets on that same tide push.
Winds are forecast to be really light tomorrow...mostly light/variable to a little bit of light offshore flow in the morning. Afternoon winds are forecast to be light as well...coming in out of the W but staying below 10 knots for most of the day.
While it won't be huge I do think it is going to be sort of fun tomorrow...particularly with the right gear. I would try and get on it around the bottom of the low tide (around 8:30am) then surf for a little bit as the tide fills in and brings a few bigger and more consistent sets. The combo beach breaks with good sandbars will likely have the best shape but you may find a few fun ones on the better lower tide reefs as well. I would still try and bring the small wave gear...basically boards that work well in waist-chest high waves...that way you can make the most out of your session while you are waiting for the bigger sets.
As promised here are the pictures of the "ugly stick"...is it not beautiful?
Monday, July 7, 2008
Tuesday's Surf - Slow fade
Tuesday will be a surf day...but really it will be more of a surf day because it will be clean rather than any sort of significant surf, which is sort of a lame reason.
We will have a mix of S-SW swells (one fading and another holding in the background), and some local WNW windswell. Most spots will continue to see knee-waist high surf with the S-facing combo breaks seeing some bigger chest high sets on the lower tide. Standout S facing surf spots and the good combo breaks in Orange County and San Diego will be a little bigger with mostly waist-chest high waves and a couple of bigger sets sneaking through on the morning tide push.
Winds will be clean again in the morning with mostly light and variable conditions early and then 10-14 knot W winds during the afternoon.
Again I don't think it will be worth traveling very far for surf tomorrow...it just won't be big or good enough to justify the time/gas suck. Personally, no matter what area you live in, you will want to try and hit up the combo beach breaks, particularly ones that have some good sandbars. I would aim for getting on it right at dawn, before the tide gets too low, or wait until a little after 8am when the tide starts to push back in. Boardwise you are going to want your small wave gear...maybe a fun fishy board if you are lighter surfer or a vintage death-log if you are a bigger guy. Not being a small guy I will have to bust out my longboard, which is affectionately known as the "ugly stick". (I will snap a couple of pictures of it tomorrow…)
We will have a mix of S-SW swells (one fading and another holding in the background), and some local WNW windswell. Most spots will continue to see knee-waist high surf with the S-facing combo breaks seeing some bigger chest high sets on the lower tide. Standout S facing surf spots and the good combo breaks in Orange County and San Diego will be a little bigger with mostly waist-chest high waves and a couple of bigger sets sneaking through on the morning tide push.
Winds will be clean again in the morning with mostly light and variable conditions early and then 10-14 knot W winds during the afternoon.
Again I don't think it will be worth traveling very far for surf tomorrow...it just won't be big or good enough to justify the time/gas suck. Personally, no matter what area you live in, you will want to try and hit up the combo beach breaks, particularly ones that have some good sandbars. I would aim for getting on it right at dawn, before the tide gets too low, or wait until a little after 8am when the tide starts to push back in. Boardwise you are going to want your small wave gear...maybe a fun fishy board if you are lighter surfer or a vintage death-log if you are a bigger guy. Not being a small guy I will have to bust out my longboard, which is affectionately known as the "ugly stick". (I will snap a couple of pictures of it tomorrow…)
Wednesday, May 21, 2008
Thursday's Surf - A couple of whacks with the ugly-stick
Thursday is not looking like much of a surf day...there may be a small window early in the morning but onshore winds will jump on it fast.
Thursday we will have lot WNW windswell in the water along with some slowly fading S swell. Most W facing spots will have surf in shoulder-head high range while the standout combo spots see overhead sets. All areas will have at minimum poor+ shape while the really open spots see straight poor-poop conditions as the winds pick up quickly through early-mid morning.
If any of you looked at the buoys today...the offshore (but still relatively close) buoys are going crazy...nearly 18- to 19-feet at 11 seconds with nearly 40 knot gusts of wind! The seas around the nearshore islands must be a total cluster. Check out this image...
There is one little ray of hope for semi-surfable conditions super early in the morning (say around 5-7am). Looks like those winds will spin the eddy super tight right next to the coast in the morning. IF, and it is a big IF, the center of the eddy gets in the right spot we could see a side-offshore to offshore flow right around dawn in the LA and North OC areas...unfortunately the other spots look pretty screwed.
Your best bet is an early morning cam/weather/buoy check. If the planets manage to align and winds back off in those two areas (LA and OC) it might be worth a quick strategic surf-strike for the dawn patrol. If you don't wake up in time (or aren't a morning person) I would probably just write the day off...winds come up pretty fast so look for all areas to have W winds 10-20+ knots by lunchtime.
These outer water winds are expected to stick around in some fashion all the way through Saturday...so don't expect much improvement until the second half of the weekend. Oh and water temps are going to take a giant dive...we might even be breaking out the booties once these onshore are done with us...(damn it.)
Thursday we will have lot WNW windswell in the water along with some slowly fading S swell. Most W facing spots will have surf in shoulder-head high range while the standout combo spots see overhead sets. All areas will have at minimum poor+ shape while the really open spots see straight poor-poop conditions as the winds pick up quickly through early-mid morning.
If any of you looked at the buoys today...the offshore (but still relatively close) buoys are going crazy...nearly 18- to 19-feet at 11 seconds with nearly 40 knot gusts of wind! The seas around the nearshore islands must be a total cluster. Check out this image...
There is one little ray of hope for semi-surfable conditions super early in the morning (say around 5-7am). Looks like those winds will spin the eddy super tight right next to the coast in the morning. IF, and it is a big IF, the center of the eddy gets in the right spot we could see a side-offshore to offshore flow right around dawn in the LA and North OC areas...unfortunately the other spots look pretty screwed.
Your best bet is an early morning cam/weather/buoy check. If the planets manage to align and winds back off in those two areas (LA and OC) it might be worth a quick strategic surf-strike for the dawn patrol. If you don't wake up in time (or aren't a morning person) I would probably just write the day off...winds come up pretty fast so look for all areas to have W winds 10-20+ knots by lunchtime.
These outer water winds are expected to stick around in some fashion all the way through Saturday...so don't expect much improvement until the second half of the weekend. Oh and water temps are going to take a giant dive...we might even be breaking out the booties once these onshore are done with us...(damn it.)
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