Fading S swell on tap for the next couple of days but our surf continues to look fun. New, but small tropical swell from Ignacio keeps the Southern Hemi energy from dropping too fast and a new NW swell (290-300) moves in over the weekend and will set up some combo peaks at the best exposed breaks.
Short Range (next 3 days)
Friday
The S swell (180-190) will be winding down but there will continue to be plenty of playful waves at the top spots as a mix of background NW windswell and some weak tropical S-SSW energy from TS Ignacio strengthens slightly. Most spots exposed spots will be in the waist-shoulder high range on the lower tides. Top S facing breaks will be in the chest-shoulder high range with some inconsistent head high sets. Winds/Weather: Look for light and variable winds through the morning, even light offshore near passes and canyons. Winds come onshore around 10-12 knots through the afternoon and may lay down a bit by sundown.
Saturday
Saturday looks pretty fun, we are going to have a mix of fading S swell (180-190), some new NW swell (285-300+), and some steady tropical S-SW swell (180-200) from Ignacio. None of the swells are particularly big but the well exposed spots will see some nice combo type conditions. Look for the average spots to be in the waist-chest high range, better and more consistent on the lower tides. The top combo spots will be in the chest-shoulder high range with some rare shoulder-head high sets coming through off the mix of energy. Winds/Weather: Look for light and variable winds through the morning, even light offshore near passes and canyons. Winds come onshore around 10-12 knots through the afternoon and may lay down a bit by sundown.
Sunday
Expect fun but smaller and less consistent surf on Sunday. The S swell (180-190) will be backing down to leftovers, and the tropical swell will likely be backing off a bit as well. The NW swell (290-300) will still be in the water but it will be dropping out as well. Look for most spots to hold in the waist-chest high range while the top combo spots hold around chest high with some less consistent shoulder high sets. Winds/Weather: winds will be a touch stronger on Sunday. Look for variable winds in the morning, mostly light but with a couple of pockets of texture. WNW winds 10-14 knots build in through the afternoon.
Long-Range
North Pacific
So we had decent little storm roll through the Gulf of Alaska the last couple of days. Not a real “winter” size swell or anything but pretty good considering that we are still in August. It doesn’t look like much is going to follow it though…high pressure starts to ridge back up across our storm track, and even though there is one more little low around the Aleutians it doesn’t look like the high is going to let it set up fetch in our swell window. So for the long-range outlook it looks like one little teaser pulse of WNW energy that fades out by the end of the weekend and then weak leftovers on tap after that.
South Pacific
We have had a nice run of S-SSW swell for the past few days and enough of its energy (backed by some tropical S-SW swell) will hold into the upcoming weekend for us to ride some playful waves. Further out it looks like things are going to quiet down for the first week of September…high pressure is blocking out most of the storms right now, and that gap of energy will arrive through that first week. Fortunately the long-range charts continue to show a few really large looking storms swirling around New Zealand and Antarctica in the next 4-5 days…if they pull together we should start seeing new S-SSW swell (180-200) arriving around the 9th of September with more on tap after that. These systems are a few days from forming…so I will have a lot more details in the next long-range forecast.
Northeast Pacific Tropics
The tropics are getting active again…possibly enough to help fill in the gap of Southern Hemi swell we have lining up for next week. Ignacio has been downgraded to a tropical depression (and sent a few waves our way)…but there are 2 new tropical disturbances that could pop into something more organized in a couple of days. Check them out…
Nothing to get super excited about yet…but worth keeping an eye on the region at least.
Next Long-range forecast will be posted on Monday, August 31, 2009
- Adam Wright
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