Showing posts with label slight eddy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label slight eddy. Show all posts

Sunday, August 8, 2010

Surf for Monday – A few playful ones on the fading S-SW mix

Monday will be surfable, but there will be a touch of eddy, the S-SW swell mix will be slowly fading, and the tides will be a bit high…all of which may keep it from being too much fun.

In the water we will have a mix of fading S-SW swell (190-210), some small local windswell (mostly in the afternoon), and some weak Southern Hemi leftovers.



Sorry to do this to you guys...but until we get the full switchover to the site you will have to click through to the new http://www.solspot.com/ for the full forecast…

Wednesday, July 29, 2009

Waves for Thursday – mostly leftovers

Thursday is sort of the fence of being a “surf day”.

On one hand there will still be a little mix of leftover SW swell (190-220) and weak WNW windswell in the water, the waters temps will be warm, and the beach air temps will be nice. On the other hand there will still be a bit of eddy texture and the tides stay a bit too high throughout the cleanest wind period in the morning.



Basically I am expecting rideable but sort of gutless, and slightly textured, knee-waist surf for most of the average spots on Thursday. A few of the top spots in South OC and Northern San Diego will have some inconsistent chest high sets, but will likely see the same gutless textured shape (just slightly bigger on the sets).

Winds will start off with the eddy flow...sort of light/variable through Ventura and the South Bay with some S flow/texture through OC and San Diego. The wind models aren’t as strong as they were for Wednesday but don’t count out a little bit of bump showing at the open beaches. WNW winds around 10-14 knots return in the afternoon. Here is a shot of the COAMPS model showing the winds around 7-8am...



I think that small wave gear is the best call tomorrow. If you have a spot with a little better SW exposure you might be able to get away with your normal board, but you will probably have more fun with fishy shapes or boards with a little more foam. Expect long waits between the bigger waves...and try to stick with spots that like a little bit more tide.

Here are the tides...

12:17AM LDT 0.8 L
07:04AM LDT 3.0 H
10:28AM LDT 2.7 L
05:19PM LDT 5.1 H

Friday, July 3, 2009

Waves for the weekend – Happy 4th of July!

Saturday and Sunday will be semi-surf days.

Most spots will be rideable, and a few of the best exposed (and wind sheltered), will even be fun at times. Overall they won’t be very consistent, or big…they will just be your standard summer SW swell.

For our swell mix this weekend we are going to see a building SW swell (200-220) that fills in on Saturday (mixing with energy from the work week), and some backing down NW windswell. The SW’er will actually peak overnight into Sunday and then fade slowly on Monday as the swell direction turns a bit more southerly. In fact it is going to look a lot like what we have on the CDIP this morning. You can see how the more SW’erly angle is going to cause the nearshore islands to shadow some of our areas, mostly North Orange County and Northern Ventura.



Wavewise the average exposed spots are going to hold around waist-chest high. The standout SW facing spots, mostly in San Diego and South OC, are going to have chest-shoulder high surf with some rare bigger sets on the better tides. The shadowed areas (North OC, North Ventura) can expect smaller, less consistent, surf…mostly around knee-waist high with some occasional chest high sets on the lower tides. The shadowed areas will start to get a little bigger as the swell turns more southerly early next week.

The winds and the weather are going to just be ok. We are going to continue to see the eddyish conditions over the weekend, but with some lighter morning windspeeds. Both Saturday and Sunday can expect light and variable to light southerly winds in the morning and then NW winds around 10-15 knots by the afternoon. Expect some onshore texture for a few of the more exposed areas…even through the dawn patrol. If you have the option it would be best to stick to spots with high cliffs, kelp, basically something to knock down the wind.

Saturday @ 8am



Sunday @ 8am



Beach temps will be sort of mild…low-mid 60’s in the morning to low 70’s in the afternoon once the sun burns through.

It is the holiday weekend…so expect crowds, shitty parking, and lots of traffic in the coastal areas. Personally I am going to stick close to my home breaks to cut down on the frustration. If you have to drive for a while to get to the beach I would hit the road early.

Here are the tides…Have a great 4th of July weekend!

Saturday
02:58AM LDT -0.4 L
09:33AM LDT 3.4 H
01:43PM LDT 2.5 L
07:56PM LDT 5.7 H

Sunday
03:33AM LDT -0.6 L
10:05AM LDT 3.5 H
02:23PM LDT 2.5 L
08:31PM LDT 5.8 H

Sunday, June 14, 2009

Surf for Monday – Building S and SW swells

Monday will be a surf day.

We will have a mix of building/peaking S (170-190) and SW swells (200-220). NW windswell has also come up a small notch from last week…so look for a little tiny cross up at the exposed combo spots. If you take a look at the CDIP and the buoys this afternoon you can see that both swells are starting to fill in…but the S swell is the most dominant.





Sizewise we can expect surf at the S facing spots to hold in the shoulder high range. Standout S facing spots and good combo breaks, in Orange County, Northern SD, and Northern LA, will have consistent shoulder-head high sets with some overhead sets mixing in on the better tides.

Winds look ok…sort of eddyish but light enough to let us surf. Look for light and variable to light southerly morning flow with some WNW winds around 10-15 knots by the afternoon. Overcast cloudy skies throughout the day but with a few pockets of sunshine burning through in the afternoon.



I don’t think there will be enough WNW-NW windswell to break up the stronger S-SW swells…so expect a lot of lined up waves at the beach breaks as well as a fair amount of current at spots where the swell can build up momentum. Points and reefs will have the best shape…but if you can’t get to a point/reef you should check the structures (piers/jetties and stuff like that) to try and find something that can crease up a few corners. There are going to be some dumpy sets at a few of the standouts…I would probably plan on brining a board that works well with waves that have a little pep.

Here are the tides

02:09AM LDT 3.5 H
09:12AM LDT 1.0 L
04:14PM LDT 4.2 H
10:52PM LDT 2.1 L

Tuesday, June 9, 2009

Waves for Wednesday – The surfing continues!

Wednesday will be another surf day.

The mix of S-SW swell will continue on Wednesday. Most of the energy will be leftovers from earlier in the week but a new SW swell (200-220) will begin moving in throughout the day and we will continue to see some background NW windswell.

Most exposed spots will see surf in the waist-chest high range. Standout S-SW facing spots, mostly through Orange County and Northern San Diego...and a few breaks sprinkled around northern LA, will have some chest-shoulder high sets. Maybe a few bigger sets at the OC and SD SW standouts by the end of the day...if it stays clean enough to pick them out.

Winds will shift back to our more normal pattern on Wednesday. We will have light and variable morning conditions with just a touch of S-SW eddy flow. Look for NW winds around 10-14 knots by the afternoon. Overcast skies at first and then clear skies burning through around midday.



I would keep an eye on the eddy circulation in the morning...there may be a little texture/crumble at the more exposed spots. You can probably dodge it by hitting up spots with some protection, like high cliffs, better positioning, or kelp or something similar that knocks the wind down. There isn’t a lot to break up the swell so look for the best shape at points and reefs...with the good sandbars being a decent, but not great backup.

Here are the tides...

06:02AM LDT -0.4 L
12:41PM LDT 3.4 H
04:52PM LDT 2.5 L
10:56PM LDT 5.2 H

Sunday, May 10, 2009

Monday’s Surf – Smaller with a touch of eddy

Monday is looking surfable but it won’t be a great surf day.

We are going to see a mix of mostly leftover S swell (180-200), a smaller SW pulse, and a bit of local NW windswell from the outer waters.

In general we can expect surf around waist high for most spots…maybe a few waist high+ sets as the low tide rolls through in the morning. Top SW facing spots and good combo breaks will be more consistently in the chest high range with a few shoulder high waves on the better parts of the tide swing.

Winds are looking ok…the forecast is calling for light winds through the day but with a “WITH A COASTAL EDDY CIRCULATION POSSIBLE EACH NIGHT AND MORNING.” (I have never been able to figure out why the NWS has removed the caps unlock button from their computers.). Anyhoo…we can expect more of the overcast morning skies and probably some light texture at spots exposed to the S winds (mostly in the SD and OC areas.) These winds will sort of fluke their way through the morning and then turn W and come onshore around 10-12 knots for the afternoon.



Overall I think that we will be able to get a few waves tomorrow...personally I am going to aim for a midmorning session and try to capitalize on the tide push and the hopefully still light winds. I think that the smaller wave boards will be the best call but if you are a lighter surfer you will probably be able to ride whatever you want.

Here are the tides…and happy Mother’s Day to all you Moms…you ladies rock!

05:40AM LDT -0.6 L
12:11PM LDT 3.2 H
04:24PM LDT 2.3 L
10:37PM LDT 5.3 H