Showing posts with label a bit o eddy. Show all posts
Showing posts with label a bit o eddy. Show all posts

Wednesday, July 8, 2009

Surf on Thursday – A few waves and some more eddy winds

Thursday is going to be a semi-surf day.

There will still be some energy in the water from a few different sources, the tides will be low in the morning, and winds don’t look horrible...but overall I don’t think all of the elements are going to mix the right way.

Swellwise we are going to see a mix of S-SW swell (180-210), some NW windswell, and a bit of tropical SE swell (160-170) from TS Blanca. That tropical swell was showing a bit this morning on the S-facing buoys...check it out...



Is it just me or is the Swell Intensity Indicator Graph giving me the finger?

The average spots are going to hold right around knee-waist high with a few waist high+ sets sneaking through on the lower tides. The standout S facing breaks, and the good combo spots, will have surf in the waist-chest high range with a few inconsistent shoulder high lines through the morning.

Winds look a little eddyish again tomorrow...sort of SSW-SSE around 5+ knots...with the cleanest conditions at spots with protection from the southerly winds. WNW winds around 10-12 knots will return in the afternoon.



Overall, if you couldn’t tell, I am not really excited about the surf tomorrow. I think there will be a few rideable waves, maybe even a couple of pockets of fun surf, but nothing that will be worth driving too far for. I would plan on using your small wave gear...just to get the most out of the surf. Points, reefs, and spots that can focus the surf will probably have the best shape. Oh and at least one good thing is coming from having the eddy winds...the water temps have been slowly climbing out of the 50’s.

Here are the tides...

05:33AM LDT -0.4 L
11:57AM LDT 3.7 H
04:45PM LDT 2.3 L
10:41PM LDT 5.4 H

Friday, March 13, 2009

Waves for the Weekend – Surf Time!

This will be a surf weekend...Saturday looks like a fun surf day through the morning...and Sunday, well Sunday looks a bit funky as S winds move in from the local eddy.

We are going to have plenty of swell for the weekend...new S swell (180-190) began filling in here on Friday and it will peak on Saturday and Sunday before slowly fading through the beginning of next week.



Saturday the S facing breaks will have surf in the chest-shoulder high range. The better exposed spots will have head high sets while the standout breaks in Orange County and North San Diego County see overhead waves sneaking through on the lower tides.

Saturday’s weather looks ok...winds look mostly light and variable to light-offshore in the morning. W winds around 10-15 knots fill in through the afternoon and start to spin up the eddy overnight.

Sunday will have similar sizes as Saturday...lots of waves in the chest-shoulder high range with head high and overhead waves at the top S-facing spots.

Sunday’s weather is another story...stronger winds in the outer waters will form up the coastal eddy sending in S winds around 10 knots for Sunday morning and SW winds around 10-12 knots for the afternoon. Now these winds aren’t horrible but they aren’t going to make a lot of the “exposed” breaks all that clean...you are going to have to sacrifice cleanliness for size, which sucks. I would probably try to find areas that have some high cliffs or big kelp patches that can knock down a bit of the surface bump.



For the best conditions/tide/size combo I would plan on trying to surf early on Saturday before the tide starts to swamp things out. I got a few waves on Friday around lunchtime, and granted the swell was still filling in, but the high tide really worked over the shape...it had some potential but man it could barely break on the outside and this was a spot that normally works ok with a little more water. Anyway...the biggest surf will be showing through Orange County and North SD...but there will be a few fun size waves at the summer spots in the other regions as well...again it is worth noting that Northern LA county is going to have some shadowing issues, particularly as you get closer to Malibu, so keep that in mind if you are surfing around there.

On Sunday we are just going to have to cross our fingers that the eddy doesn’t get as strong as it is forecasting it to be this afternoon...I would probably take the morning a bit slower and see if you can get a read on conditions before jamming down to the beach.

Here are the tides...have a good one!

Saturday
06:15AM LDT 0.1 L
12:10PM LDT 3.5 H
05:35PM LDT 1.3 L
11:52PM LDT 5.0 H

Sunday
07:07AM LDT 0.4 L
01:08PM LDT 2.9 H
05:53PM LDT 1.8 L